Surging/Bucking while towing TT

[goose464]

Hey all.

We just bought a 2011 Star Craft TT weighing in at ~3500 lbs.

I don't have a lot of experience towing but I noticed some bucking/surging while going through town at lower speeds 25-35. Is this normal? Is this because the Jt is light? Not sure if this is normal or something to be concerned about. Other than that, she pulled fine. But I have no frame of reference for a full sized truck and how this should feel.

I am using anti-sway (no WDH). I see a lot of folks mentioning WDH. I also don't have the brake controller yet.

Thanks, and here's a pic of the setup as thanks.

Sponsored

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I've never towed a travel trailer without a WDH - even with my full-sized trucks, so I can't say if that's a symptom, but I'd get a brake controller quickly and look into a correctly sized and set up WDH.
That being a single axle might be the difference without the WDH

 

[Armylemons]

You need a brake controller. Every time you hit the brakes the trailer is gonna buck.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

You need a brake controller. Every time you hit the brakes the trailer is gonna buck.

And more in a single axle as the trailer will pivot forward, pushing the hitch/tongue down (made worse without a WDH)

 

[kevman65]

Brake controller, IF your TT has electric brakes on it.

The bucking at slower speeds is due to the JT taking off from a dead stop (ball slamming into front of hitch) and slowing down or stopping (ball slamming into back of hitch).

The JT is doing all the work of stopping itself AND the TT. With the brake controller the trailer brakes will slow the inertia of the trailer.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Brake controller, IF your TT has electric brakes on it.

The bucking at slower speeds is due to the JT taking off from a dead stop (ball slamming into front of hitch) and slowing down or stopping (ball slamming into back of hitch).

The JT is doing all the work of stopping itself AND the TT. With the brake controller the trailer brakes will slow the inertia of the trailer.

Yeah, guess it could have surge brakes - do they use those on travel trailers?

 

[kevman65]

I think all states require trailer brakes on anything over 3000#s, so his TT SHOULD have brakes, but I have seen some that don't.

With him being new to towing I think it's just the whole inertia thing on starting and stopping. Unfortunately it shows up worse in stop-n-go traffic in town with the weight hitting each side of the ball.

Honestly, the dealer should have never allowed him to tow the TT off the lot. Since the tow vehicle wasn't up to requirements for towing.

 

[JustKruzn]

If he has trailer brakes, which he should if the TT is over 3000 pounds. Swing by a local rv shop and pick up a brake controller.
I hate to advertise for companies but I think camping world is carrying the Redarc controller and harnes to make install plug and play. At least the store near me is carrying redarc now.

 

[KVJ]

Starcraft come standard with electric brakes.

Steve,
There are a number of things to consider.
I see you have a lift, did you replace the max tow rear springs for something else?
When you are driving around, do you have your water holding tank filled? It shouldn't be particularly if it is aft of the axle.
Does it only buck/surge when hitting bumps like RR tracks or culvert pipe? That can be mitigated with Sumo Springs bump stops.

 

[goose464]

I've never towed a travel trailer without a WDH - even with my full-sized trucks, so I can't say if that's a symptom, but I'd get a brake controller quickly and look into a correctly sized and set up WDH.
That being a single axle might be the difference without the WDH

The TT has brakes, and my understanding is the brake controller simply helps you apply more or less brake. The TT should receive a brake signal from my 7 pin regardless of having a brake controller right?

 

[goose464]

Starcraft come standard with electric brakes.

Steve,
There are a number of things to consider.
I see you have a lift, did you replace the max tow rear springs for something else?
When you are driving around, do you have your water holding tank filled? It shouldn't be particularly if it is aft of the axle.
Does it only buck/surge when hitting bumps like RR tracks or culvert pipe? That can be mitigated with Sumo Springs bump stops.

Thanks for the reply. No suspension change, just a 2" spacer kit. Nothing in the water tanks. Most of the bumping / surging is while getting up to speed and on bumpier roads.

While braking, it feels smooth.

 

[goose464]

I think all states require trailer brakes on anything over 3000#s, so his TT SHOULD have brakes, but I have seen some that don't.

With him being new to towing I think it's just the whole inertia thing on starting and stopping. Unfortunately it shows up worse in stop-n-go traffic in town with the weight hitting each side of the ball.

Honestly, the dealer should have never allowed him to tow the TT off the lot. Since the tow vehicle wasn't up to requirements for towing.

The trailer brakes are on the trailer no? I am confused at to what you are saying I should have before towing this TT. A trailer brake controller?

 

[goose464]

You need a brake controller. Every time you hit the brakes the trailer is gonna buck.

I am not feeling any bucking while braking. Mostly at slower speeds through town. On the state route going 55 it felt fine. Also felt fine coming to a stop from 55 to a stop sign.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

The TT has brakes, and my understanding is the brake controller simply helps you apply more or less brake. The TT should receive a brake signal from my 7 pin regardless of having a brake controller right?

NO. IF your trailer has electric brakes, you must have a TRAILER brake controller on your truck. There's nothing going back to the trailer brake wire in that connector without a controller in the truck. It's the brake controller that sends power to the electric brakes on the trailer.
So you need a Curt, Redarc, Mopar, etc. trailer brake controller installed in your truck.
(If it has surge brakes, that's different)
Otherwise, with electric trailer brakes, your trailer may have brakes but they are not working at all - they are just sitting there.
The harder you brake with your truck the brake controller senses that and sends a stronger signal or more power to the trailer brakes. Light braking the trailer brake controller in the truck sends less power to the trailer brakes. It has a device inside that senses acceleration and deceleration and the harder you decelerate, the more power it sends to the trailer brakes.

Without the trailer brake controller in your truck - there's nothing sensing the braking and sending power.
That's assuming your trailer has ELECTRIC brakes.
The sales person is a fool for not advising you on brakes on that thing. That's just plain negligent, IMO.
You need to give them some crap and ask them WHAT type of brakes your trailer has - surge, electric, etc. and why they never talked to you and taught you about that.

 

[KVJ]

Steve, If the the trailer is balance evenly it is like a teeter totter with the axle being the fulcrum. The tongue weight should be heavier than the tail and typically 10-15% of the weight of the trailer. If it is too light it will buck up and down at the ball. So if your trailer weighs 3500# you should have a tongue weight of 350# plus, depending how much stuff you take with you.

I'll add, you can check your ball hitch bar in the receptible and see how much play is in it. Some can be pretty sloppy but you can deal with that easily.

Sponsored