Suspension Lift Basics, Recommendations?

[Chocolyle]

I am looking at doing a 2" lift. I like the stock height and the way the truck handles as it is, especialy in corners and on the highway. However on our last adventure we realized we really need to go a little higher. I have looked at Metaclock and Clayton. I want to do a 1 and done. The only catch in the lift is I want to keep the stock steelies, spare tire wheels. I will probably go to either 35's or a small possibility of 37's. More likely 35's in a 10.5" width. Not a fan of fat tires and really don't want the tire sticking out past the fender. (Stock JTR)

Recomendations for the lift? What else other than the lift should be done, track bar, steering stabilizer? YouTube video that goes over what to look for?

What say you?

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[AustinL911]

I'm kind of in the same boat as you. I don't want anything too extreme as I'd still like to fit in my 7' garage.

I currently have 35" STT Pros. I'm looking at going with Clayton 1.5" leveling kit, which would actually give me around 2" of lift, plus all of their control arms/track bars for adjustability, plus Icon rear springs (a little softer). I'll probably add on Fox shocks for a 2-3" lift as I've been happy with the stickers.

 

[Darkspeed]

Geometry brackets to have factory like ride.

 

[rafael004]

i have installed metalcloak 3.5 in my and ride perfect

 

[TheOpa]

I would recommend that you consider the Clayton 2.5” overland + kit. I did that with the fox 2.0 shocks and am very pleased. I still fit through my 7’ garage door by 3” with 35” tires.

 

[Chocolyle]

I would recommend that you consider the Clayton 2.5” overland + kit. I did that with the fox 2.0 shocks and am very pleased. I still fit through my 7’ garage door by 3” with 35” tires.

I do like the Clayton setup plus they are in CT not far from me.

 

[Escape.idiocracy]

Clayton 2.5 lift and 37x11.5 tires. ? you have a rubicon with tall fenders. This is a great combo- and would let you keep the factory wheels.

 

[Chocolyle]

Clayton 2.5 lift and 37x11.5 tires. ? you have a rubicon with tall fenders. This is a great combo- and would let you keep the factory wheels.

Who makes 37x11.5?

 

[Darkspeed]

Clayton + geometry brackets + steer smarts sector shaft brace

 

[AustinL911]

Clayton + geometry brackets + steer smarts sector shaft brace

What are these brackets you speak of?

 

[Escape.idiocracy]

Who makes 37x11.5?

Nitto ???

https://www.nittotire.com/light-truck-tires/recon-grappler-all-terrain-light-truck-tire/

 

[Darkspeed]

when you lift the angle of your control arm changes. These put it back to near factory.

What are these brackets you speak of?

Example : Rancho RockGEAR RS62118B Suspension Control Arm Bracket https://a.co/d/7f4XAK5

 

[JD101]

If your not getting crazy with added travel . Save yourself some cash run the stock arms with relocation brackets , front/rear shock extension brackets. I would run a synergy 3" front and 2 " rear spring or Rusty's 1.5" block ,
Mopar extended or similar sway bar links . Make or buy some bumpstop extensions. You could always by a kit similar like AEV .

It looks like you don't have a Rubicon (?) .
The key to tire fitment is in the fenders . Non rubi and non Mohave have shorter fenders .
At the lift height I suggested 35s are a good fit on a rig without high line or aftermarket fenders. From my experience going above 3" is when added correction becomes needed to maintain stock ride and steering . Synergy springs are soft and seem more conservative on the actual lift achieved . It's a shorter 3 inches IMO. You could get away without an adjustable trackbar . Obviously you can upgrade as parts wear or $$ allows .

Gearing : do you have the max tow ? Even if so I wouldn't go more than a 35 on 4.10s on a gladiator. I would look at 285/75r17 (34x11.50) or maybe a 305/70r17. However a 35x or 315/70r17 will fit fine . It's a give and take . Take it for what it's worth.

Here is a pic of my rigs 1st suspension . It's a Rubicon 37x12.50 on a 2 3/4" front and 3/4" rear . A non rubi would have similar fitment with a 34/35" tire .

Here is our non rubi JL with aftermarket fenders and 1 3/4" front and 3/4" rear with 35x12.50s . It's all about the fenders .

 

[Escape.idiocracy]

If your not getting crazy with added travel . Save yourself some cash run the stock arms with relocation brackets , front/rear shock extension brackets. I would run a synergy 3" front and 2 " rear spring or Rusty's 1.5" block ,
Mopar extended or similar sway bar links . Make or buy some bumpstop extensions. You could always by a kit similar like AEV .

It looks like you don't have a Rubicon (?) .
The key to tire fitment is in the fenders . Non rubi and non Mohave have shorter fenders .
At the lift height I suggested 35s are a good fit on a rig without high line or aftermarket fenders. From my experience going above 3" is when added correction becomes needed to maintain stock ride and steering . Synergy springs are soft and seem more conservative on the actual lift achieved . It's a shorter 3 inches IMO. You could get away without an adjustable trackbar . Obviously you can upgrade as parts wear or $$ allows .

Gearing : do you have the max tow ? Even if so I wouldn't go more than a 35 on 4.10s on a gladiator. I would look at 285/75r17 (34x11.50) or maybe a 305/70r17. However a 35x or 315/70r17 will fit fine . It's a give and take . Take it for what it's worth.

Here is a pic of my rigs 1st suspension . It's a Rubicon 37x12.50 on a 2 3/4" front and 3/4" rear . A non rubi would have similar fitment with a 34/35" tire .

Here is our non rubi JL with aftermarket fenders and 1 3/4" front and 3/4" rear with 35x12.50s . It's all about the fenders .

“ Not a fan of fat tires and really don't want the tire sticking out past the fender. (Stock JTR)” - first post ?

 

[JD101]

“ Not a fan of fat tires and really don't want the tire sticking out past the fender. (Stock JTR)” - first post ?

I missed that didn't I , lol. Well the info still applies I suppose .

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