Suspension/Lift for 35's with emphasis for On-Road manners.

[bastage]

Picked up a Sport S with Max Tow last night. It will be my daily driver & see much more on-road vs off-road so I am more concerned with pavement manners then anything else. But I want the road manners along with no looking so damn goofy of the stock rake & little tires.

I am primarily looking at one of the following 3 options, but if I have missed something that better suits what I am looking for please educate me.

1. Stock Rubicon Shocks & Front Coils - I have read a bunch & have read some conflicting reports on this. Some seem to indicate that this would lift the front end 1-1.75" & level it, other posts say this wont provide any lift at all & would just improve the shock quality. If it doesnt lift anything then I would pass & go with something that gets rid of the Factory Rake. I can pickup take'off's of the shocks & coils for 150 or less local so this is by far the budget option that would leave more budget for mods elsewhere.

2. Mopar 2" lift - I haven't found a clear answer on if this mostly due to the contentedness of option 1. If it was 2" above my stock & leveled this its a solid option, but if the Rubicon front suspension actually is higher then mine & then this gives 2" above that it would be taller then I am looking for.

3. Teraflex 2.5" Sport ST2 Spring & Spacer Lift System - As this kit doesnt include rear coils its pretty clear what it lifts. I know the shocks have 2 settings so minimal adjustability, but how do the Falcon shocks stack up against the Fox stuff for on road in the other 2 options.

My budget is 2k at most including the alignment after for the lift.


Edit: With this & its own separate budget will come wheels & the tires.. What offset is most appropriate to not give it too much stick out, but still safely clear everything underneath.

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[Alabama Mud Machine]

1.) I have been told the same... Some say the springs provide lift, some say it doesn't... I have no idea. But I know my stock Rubicon with factory 285/70r17 Wilpeak M/T's sat noticeably higher than a stock JT in any other trim model, so I have no idea.

2.) The Mopar lift won't get rid of the rake... It lifts both front & rear 2".

3.) Take a look at the Skyjacker G250MSB 2.5" front, 1.0" rear spacer lift. It's what I have on my JTR, and I'm clearing 37's with no issues. So, you should be able to clear 35's without a problem. It's budget-friendly, and you can pick one up on eBay for about $350. Saves you plenty of cash for your tires and front-end alignment.

 

[bastage]

1.) I have been told the same... Some say the springs provide lift, some say it doesn't... I have no idea. But I know my stock Rubicon with factory 285/70r17 Wilpeak M/T's sat noticeably higher than a stock JT in any other trim model, so I have no idea.

2.) The Mopar lift won't get rid of the rake... It lifts both front & rear 2".

3.) Take a look at the Skyjacker G250MSB 2.5" front, 1.0" rear spacer lift. It's what I have on my JTR, and I'm clearing 37's with no issues. So, you should be able to clear 35's without a problem. It's budget-friendly, and you can pick one up on eBay for about $350. Saves you plenty of cash for your tires and front-end alignment.

Well that would definitely eliminate option #2 The rear end is high enough as it is so 2 more inch's would be too much for what I want I think.

I am kinda opposed to spacer lift's, Have had them on previous vehicles before & although they improve appearance they never add to the ride & normally detract some from it in my experience. So while I am doing it I would prefer just doing it right if that makes sense. Not saying anyone else shouldn't run one, but the ride being among my highest priorities I am dedicating more budget to it then just about anything else & if something else has to wait I am good with that.

 

[Alabama Mud Machine]

My Rubicon rides just like it does stock... I put the lift on before I had my new tires & wheels, so I was able to drive it a fair bit before the new E-rated tires and 20's, and it rode just like stock, just slightly taller. Spacer lifts on most vehicles are not a good idea, but on a coil-sprung vehicle with a 2-link, 3-link, or 4-link setup, it's not really an issue. Only going with 2.5" is no different than a leveling kit on a Ram 2500 or 3500. Which changes nothing but front-end height allowing for better stance and bigger tires.

Also, I will say this... "Doing it right" and limiting yourself to a $2000 budget don't fit in the same sentence when it comes to offroad vehicles. I've built LOTS of them in my life...Trust me, it pretty much never fits inside your budget parameters.

 

[bastage]

Also, I will say this... "Doing it right" and limiting yourself to a $2000 budget don't fit in the same sentence when it comes to offroad vehicles. I've built LOTS of them in my life...Trust me, it pretty much never fits inside your budget parameters.

Its not necessarily the offroad performance I am trying to improve though. I certainly dont want to hurt it, but other then size my old F150 with a spacer level got me anywhere I wanted to go (the width on the other hand kept me out of some of my favorite fishing spots & that was being more then willing to brandish the rocky mountain pinstriping). For that matter my old Subaru Forester with Geolander G015's got me everywhere too.

 

[Alabama Mud Machine]

You will blow the $2000 budget on a good spring and shock lift with adjustable control arms, etc... in no time, and leave no money for tires.

For what you are trying to achieve, a simple little spacer lift and 35's will be perfect, since you don't plan on hardcore wheeling. And most off-roading you'll be perfectly fine with a spacer lift, but when you start trying to rock-crawl and flex-out as much as you can, you will want an all-spring lift...But you're talking in the $1,500+ range just for the lift, not installed.

This is why I recommended the G250MSB. I have a thread about it in this sub-section, check it out. Another member with a Sport S model installed the same lift on his, with 35's and really likes it.

Eventually, as time goes on, and I get closer to my lease being up, and me taking-on the remainder of my JTR as a purchase loan, then I will be so inclined to install a "real" lift, like the Evo Manufacturing 2.5" setup with all adjustable everything, and full springs, etc... But we're talking $$$. For right now, she rides and drives like a stock Rubicon (slightly better thanks to the wider tires and wheels), and as lightly as I'll be off-roading it (around the property, hunting, fishing, dirt roads, occasional mud & creek banks), I'll be just fine with my spacer lift and 37's. It should get me everywhere I need to go...And if I get stuck, that's what my winch is for.

 

[Phljeeper]

The biggest thing to look for in a lift is it being a complete kit. You want to have shocks that are the right length to fit the height of the new lift and you need it to include longer sway bar links, longer/adjustable track bars, bump stop extensions, longer brake lines and at least front lower or upper control arms (or geometry correction brackets). A more complete kit (needed for taller lifts) should include all 8 control arms. As for coil vs spacers, it really depends on what you are doing with your Jeep. The biggest part of driving dynamics comes from all the parts being upgraded to correct geometry of all the components (trackbar, sway bar, shock length, etc). The new coils will improve your articulation in off camber off road driving much more than spacers due to the coil length improvement. But if you are only driving on the road or minor non rock trails and just trying clear bigger tires and you like the stock ride feel of stock coils the spacers are fine. You can also change the amount of coil compression when towing or adding heavy bumpers with aftermarket coils where spacers won’t improve. It should also be noted that high quality shocks can make more difference in driving (assume your have a complete lift with the geometry corrected) over anything else.

 

[bastage]

Sounds like I may be way over thinking my needs...

I think I will start with the Rubi suspension components & if that doesnt make it level/high enough for my liking I will add a spacer.

 

[Capt. B]

Check out the Rough Country 3.5". I too am an on roader much more than off roader and it rides just like the factory ride does. FYI, I had it purchased and installed for less than $1K. Unless you just want to spend money.

 

[teleportJeep]

Sounds like I may be way over thinking my needs...

I think I will start with the Rubi suspension components & if that doesnt make it level/high enough for my liking I will add a spacer.

I have read many posts and most do report that the rubicon springs and shocks will lift it .75-1” over stock.
I just got a full set of take offs from a rubicon and will be adding a 1.5 teraflex at the front to get rid of the rake.
Will report back my final setup.

 

[Jeeperjamie]

I got the 2.5" ReadyLift SST lift kit put on mine. It gives 2.5" in front and 2" in the rear. Cost me $801 out the door installed including alignment. Running 315 70 17 BFG KO2's. Mines a Max Tow as well and it rides as good as it did stock. The Readylift is a complete kit. 100% happy with how it rides and the mpgs are still around 18 average. Mine also has 1.75" wheel spacers installed, here's two pictures one without the spacers and one with

Without

With

 

[Jeeperjamie]

Just for reference, it rides so good with the 35's And I haven't saw much if any at all performance loss with the 35's. I'll be going to 37's as a result since I really feel like the Max Tow can handle them. Here's a link to the lift kit

https://www.readylift.com/jeep-jt-gladiator-sst-lift-kit-69-6025.html

 

[Phljeeper]

Just for reference, it rides so good with the 35's And I haven't saw much if any at all performance loss with the 35's. I'll be going to 37's as a result since I really feel like the Max Tow can handle them. Here's a link to the lift kit

https://www.readylift.com/jeep-jt-gladiator-sst-lift-kit-69-6025.html

overall this is a mostly complete kit. It is spacers and extensions but is missing extensions for the rear shocks and doesn’t address the front control arms which will change your ride to make it feel more flighty due to the change to your front caster angle. To make this kit complete it would need rear shock extensions and control arm brackets and likely some form of correction for the trackbar length to center the axles. It also doesn’t include front sway bar linkages but may work by moving the rear to the front.

 

[Jeeperjamie]

overall this is a mostly complete kit. It is spacers and extensions but is missing extensions for the rear shocks and doesn’t address the front control arms which will change your ride to make it feel more flighty due to the change to your front caster angle. To make this kit complete it would need rear shock extensions and control arm brackets. It also doesn’t include front sway bar linkages but may work by moving the rear to the front.

It does come with extended sway bars for the rear, you just move the rears to the front. As far as flighty driving, it does not drive any different than it did stock. I have been in some high winds 50-70 plus mph and haven't had any experience with the driving being flightly. I thought about adding Geo Brackets for the control arms if that did happen but I haven't experienced any so I'm not working about. Feels stock to me.

If feel like you would need them then you can get them for $125 and put them on yourself in the driveway. You would still be well under $1000

https://www.4wd.com/p/rubicon-expre...rrection-drop-brackets-re9801/_/R-BKTG-RE9801

 

[Phljeeper]

It does come with extended sway bars for the rear, you just move the rears to the front. As far as flighty driving, it does not drive any different than it did stock. I have been in some high winds 50-70 plus mph and haven't had any experience with the driving being flightly. I thought about adding Geo Brackets for the control arms if that did happen but I haven't experienced any so I'm not working about. Feels stock to me.

probably varying degrees of impact and you may not notice the difference but just wanted to note that to be complete and feel 100% stock the kit needs to correct all geometry and component length. The kit would need front control arm correction and rear shock correction to be complete. The rear shocks are too short stock for the 2.5” or rear lift which will result in flex issues on off camber trails. For on road use only you may not notice.

All of these issues are corrected with a mopar 2” lift and many other higher cost (Rock krawler, metalcloak, EVO, Teraflex) but similar height lift kits. Some may require buying the more complete version of their kits. Most at 2+” also address the trackbar length as well which without addressing will cause the axle to shift to the side and no longer be centered.

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