Tell me about tie rods

[Orange01z28]

Due to a nagging DW at 42 mph (after getting tires rebalanced) my mechanic buddy and I did some examination on the front end

he ruled out ball joints or wheel bearings, but we saw some play in the track bar and the tie rod ends, with a tiny bit in the steering box

I’m going to replace the Rubicon Express track bar with Metalcloak

Now my question is about the tie rod. Can you just replace tie rod ends on a JT/JL? Is it worth spending all the extra money for aftermarket? Any recommendations?

I’m sure the steering box will get worse but I’m way out of warranty and don’t want to drop all that money right now

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[ShadowsPapa]

Due to a nagging DW at 42 mph (after getting tires rebalanced)

You are saying you got the death wobble - the REAL death wobble that tries to rip the steering wheel out of your hand, the REAL death wobble that doesn't stop until you slow way down - after a tire rebalance?
Do you really mean the real death wobble that's uncontrollable, or do you really mean a bad shimmy?

Does it really take slowing waaay down to make it stop?
Does it really shake the steering wheel so hard it's hard to control the truck?
If not, it's not death wobble.

If this started after a "wheel rebalance" that should be a clue that your wheel rebalance is crap.

What mods are on your truck? Wheel changes? Spacers? what lift?

 

[Orange01z28]

You are saying you got the death wobble - the REAL death wobble that tries to rip the steering wheel out of your hand, the REAL death wobble that doesn't stop until you slow way down - after a tire rebalance?
Do you really mean the real death wobble that's uncontrollable, or do you really mean a bad shimmy?

Does it really take slowing waaay down to make it stop?
Does it really shake the steering wheel so hard it's hard to control the truck?
If not, it's not death wobble.

If this started after a "wheel rebalance" that should be a clue that your wheel rebalance is crap.

What mods are on your truck? Wheel changes? Spacers? what lift?

Just some clarification, it didn't start after a wheel balance, just got radically worse. I had it rebalanced after that and it improved but did go away

This started with my old tires as they got worn, and then went away with these tires when they were new bud slowly got worse as I put more miles on them. It’s also weird because if I feel the wobble coming on I can hold the wheel still with my arms and stop it, or if it gets real bad I can gas it and go over 50 to stop it. Sometimes though, I do have the shake so bad that it's hard to control and I have to stop to stop it

 

[Orange01z28]

So my question is- do tie rod ends exist for the JT or do I have to replace the whole assembly?

 

[Fpolanco]

I’ve had death wobble on my JKU. Turns out the tires needed to be rebalanced.

I still ended up installing the Synergy steering kit at a later date and it made the drive a whole lot better. However, it’s def not a fix for DW.

I have heard stories of DW getting worse as the tires wear down but I would still check the balance on the tires.

As for tie rod ends, they do exist:

https://www.extremeterrain.com/sear...ionId=43&vehicleType=Gladiator&autocomplete=1

 

[hjdca]

Due to a nagging DW at 42 mph (after getting tires rebalanced) my mechanic buddy and I did some examination on the front end

he ruled out ball joints or wheel bearings, but we saw some play in the track bar and the tie rod ends, with a tiny bit in the steering box

I’m going to replace the Rubicon Express track bar with Metalcloak

Now my question is about the tie rod. Can you just replace tie rod ends on a JT/JL? Is it worth spending all the extra money for aftermarket? Any recommendations?

I’m sure the steering box will get worse but I’m way out of warranty and don’t want to drop all that money right now

I would not replace with stock. The aftermarket seem to have tighter joints, and the aluminum ones will not bend like the stock thin steel. I went with the RPM 2.5 Ton JT HD 2" Aluminum Steering Kit - tie rod and Drag link. I have hit the tie rod on rocks many times and it does not bend. My toe in stays perfect. The joint ends are also very tight; much tighter than my stock one. You can really feel the difference during installation. My stock one had approx. 25-30K miles when I did the swap. I have over 50K miles now and the steering is nice and tight. Be aware, the 2.5 ton aluminum is a very thick bar, and if I remember right, you need a lift installed for clearance. If you do not have a lift, there are less thick ones available. If you get one with a lock nut, like RPM, use blue locktight on the threads when you dial in your toe in, and tighted with a huge cresent wrench with all your might. This will insure the lock nut does not come loose.

 

[Lunentucker]

Is the truck lifted or stock?
If lifted, how much and what's been done to correct caster angle?

 

[TheRealGinjaNinja]

I would not replace with stock. The aftermarket seem to have tighter joints, and the aluminum ones will not bend like the stock thin steel. I went with the RPM 2.5 Ton JT HD 2" Aluminum Steering Kit - tie rod and Drag link. I have hit the tie rod on rocks many times and it does not bend. My toe in stays perfect. The joint ends are also very tight; much tighter than my stock one. You can really feel the difference during installation. My stock one had approx. 25-30K miles when I did the swap. I have over 50K miles now and the steering is nice and tight. Be aware, the 2.5 ton aluminum is a very thick bar, and if I remember right, you need a lift installed for clearance. If you do not have a lift, there are less thick ones available. If you get one with a lock nut, like RPM, use blue locktight on the threads when you dial in your toe in, and tighted with a huge cresent wrench with all your might. This will insure the lock nut does not come loose.

So much good info here and I literally went the same route and recommend it. I had a lock nut that refused to stay tight but blue lock tight solved it ;-)

 

[hjdca]

Is the truck lifted or stock?
If lifted, how much and what's been done to correct caster angle?

My lift is a Clayton 3.5" Overland Plus kit. I followed Clayton's recommendations exactly for the adjustable control arm lengths and ended up around 6.0 for the caster. I decided to error a little on the long side and went an additional 1/2 turn shorter on the upper arms and 1/2 turn longer on the bottom arms for approx. 6.5+ or so on the caster. 6.5 to 6.8 or so for Caster and tight tie rod and Drag link joints have been perfect for my truck - tight, straight, and never any wobble.

 

[TheRealGinjaNinja]

My lift is a Clayton 3.5" Overland Plus kit. I followed Clayton's recommendations exactly for the adjustable control arm lengths and ended up around 6.0 for the caster. I decided to error a little on the long side and went an additional 1/2 turn shorter on the upper arms and 1/2 turn longer on the bottom arms for approx. 6.5+ or so on the caster. 6.5 to 6.8 or so for Caster and tight tie rod and Drag link joints have been perfect for my truck - tight, straight, and never any wobble.

Comment about caster - I have a Mojave with AEV 2” lift and Rancho geometry brackets on the middle hole. My caster is 7.0* and it is perfect.

Cheers

 

[Lunentucker]

Comment about caster - I have a Mojave with AEV 2” lift and Rancho geometry brackets on the middle hole. My caster is 7.0* and it is perfect.

Cheers

That's my setup as well, though I haven't had the caster angle confirmed. I just know it drives great.

 

[Orange01z28]

Is the truck lifted or stock?
If lifted, how much and what's been done to correct caster angle?

3.5"

Control arm correction brackets were installed for the original lift, and when i recently replaced the control arms and spring correction pads my mechanic pushed the front axle 1/4" forward to correct the angle

 

[Escape.idiocracy]

Just some clarification, it didn't start after a wheel balance, just got radically worse. I had it rebalanced after that and it improved but did go away

This started with my old tires as they got worn, and then went away with these tires when they were new bud slowly got worse as I put more miles on them. It’s also weird because if I feel the wobble coming on I can hold the wheel still with my arms and stop it, or if it gets real bad I can gas it and go over 50 to stop it. Sometimes though, I do have the shake so bad that it's hard to control and I have to stop to stop it

Hopefully I didn’t miss the answer to this further down- when you had the tires balanced did you have them do it with a road force balance machine?

I’ll have to google….. but Moog high angle ends is what I have used in the past- they are usually regularly available at autozone etc. big badass 2.5 ton ends are nice….. but unless you are keeping a pair of them for backups it’s annoying to wait on the post man… especially when you’re away from home and things break.

 

[WILDHOBO]

Just some clarification, it didn't start after a wheel balance, just got radically worse. I had it rebalanced after that and it improved but did go away

This started with my old tires as they got worn, and then went away with these tires when they were new bud slowly got worse as I put more miles on them. It’s also weird because if I feel the wobble coming on I can hold the wheel still with my arms and stop it, or if it gets real bad I can gas it and go over 50 to stop it. Sometimes though, I do have the shake so bad that it's hard to control and I have to stop to stop it

Does it start around 40mph and you can drive through it around 50?

 

[Orange01z28]

Does it start around 40mph and you can drive through it around 50?

Yes

and only if I hit a bump

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