Thinking of Installing a Clayton 2.5" Lift on my Sport S Willys...

[Wet Willys]

I'm strongly considering a Clayton 2.5" lift. I'm going back and forth between the Overland and the Premium kit. How much difference fo the Johnny Joints make? I was also planning on Fox 2.0 shocks. What competitors are on par with Clayton's Overland or Premium lifts?

I'm also still debating 35's vs 37's. I know this topic has been beaten to death on this forum. My biggest hangup is having to re-gear. That's a lot of extra expense that I'm not sure I want to pile on to the already expensive list of mods. Will there be a rubbing concern with the 2.5" lift and 37's?

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[Clayton Off Road]

Hello! The main difference you would notice between the Johnny Joints and Giiro joints is the Giiro joints would benefit you a little bit more on-road, while the Johnny Joints would give you a little bit more of an edge off-road. The Giiro joints included in the Overland Plus kit are dual durometer, maintenance-free rubber bushings that help to soak up road noise and vibrations for a smooth and comfortable daily driver, while also providing all of the flex necessary for off-road use! The Johnny Joints do give you just a little bit more misalignment if you're looking for all of the flex possible, but they also are not as quiet on-road and do require some maintenance.

Deciding between 2.5" and 3.5", it really just matters what it is you plan on using the vehicle for and what look you're going for. If you're looking for better street manners, go 2.5" as the lower center of gravity will benefit you, or if you want more of an off-road build, a 3.5" kit offers more ground clearance! Re-gearing isn't something you necessarily have to get into, it just depends on how much power you're okay with losing as you go up in tire size. I would say though that most are probably fine without re-gearing up to 37's, but again it's all personal preference and it is recommended if you don't like the idea of losing too much power! If you have any other questions, always happy to help

 

[KurtP]

I chose the Overland+ control arms. They still flex more than stock, are comfortable and entirely noise free on road.

For having a truck i use for DD, traveling, camping, and wheeling, the edge to comfort and zero maintenance was the way i went. I dont want to have to mess with greasing control arm bushings to get a little extra flex. Just wasnt worth it to me personally.

If you’re looking in the 35-37” tire range, i’d go 2.5”. For competitors? Icon, Metal Cloak, Rock Krawler would probably be up there. I think they mostly use johnny type joints.

 

[Benbean66]

I'm about to pull the trigger on a set of Clayton Overland+ control arms and track bars. Going to install them at stock lengths until I pick up the set of EVO 2.5" lift springs and Fox shocks that I'm buying from a fellow forum member. Looking forward to seeing how the ride changes throughout the stages.

 

[Trlr8tdd]

I ran full articulation joints on our JKR, I’ll Never do that again! Street ability just isn’t there. A friend with a V8 JKU with all the goodies runs Teraflex Alpines, rubber joints. Whatever control arms I go with will have rubber joints. Just an FYI!

 

[Clayton Off Road]

I ran full articulation joints on our JKR, I’ll Never do that again! Street ability just isn’t there. A friend with a V8 JKU with all the goodies runs Teraflex Alpines, rubber joints. Whatever control arms I go with will have rubber joints. Just an FYI!

It's definitely the best way to go nowadays for most, especially because the off-road performance is almost right on par with something like a Johnny Joint but you get all of the added benefits rubber bushings have to offer

 

[KurtP]

It's definitely the best way to go nowadays for most, especially because the off-road performance is almost right on par with something like a Johnny Joint but you get all of the added benefits rubber bushings have to offer

^this

Its easier to get road head when the truck rides smooth. Save your road head experience. Get Giro joints. ?

 

[robd1438]

Totally agree with all points, I went with the Overland+ (3.5) for my JTR; doing 37's and regearing ONLY cause I tow with it. If your Sport S is a max tow you have 4.10's and can def do 35 or even 37 but if you have the 3.73 gears I probably wouldn't suggest going to 37's. I ran 35's with 3.73 on my JLU and while I lost 8th 90% of the time it was still fine as a daily driver and weekend warrior.

 

[j.o.y.ride]

If you live where it's flat and don't tow you can do 3.73 and 35 but it will drive like a 6.5 speed not 8 speed. Wouldn't ever consider 37s.

If you tow or get into hills then I would strongly encourage you to re-gear. And once you re-gear it's really up to you 35 vs 37.

But if you don't want the cost of a re-gear then you won't like the cost of the recommended up grades for 37s. Axle shafts, possibly drive shafts, ball joints. Key being recommended. You don't NEED those things but you would be wise to get around to them especially if you ever wheel it.

 

[Wet Willys]

Thanks for all the responses! So it looks like I should go with the Overland setup, road manners and ride comfort are a big factor for me.

No max tow for me unfortunately, so 3.73's. Still on the fence with 37's. I may be ok with re-gearing. I do have a friend that works at a Dodge/Jeep dealer that could do the install for me cheap. As far as driveshafts, axles, ball joints, etc...I def don't want to go down that rabbit hole. This will be a 90% on road/10% off road DD, so I don't want to get too carried away.

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