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Tire/Wheel Sizes for Dummies

rvillano8188

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When shopping, tire sizes are shown as such for a BFG KO2:

  • Size: LT285/65R18 125/122R E
Can someone please break down part of these numbers for me?

Essentially, I'm looking for a 35" tire on an 18" wheel, but am having a hard time understanding what means what and the size I'd be safe with. The idea is that I'd do very minimal off roading (basically only driving on the beach) and eventually, I'd be looking to tow a small boat under 5k lbs with trailer. Bouncing back and forth between Overland and Rubi on build.

Also, from what I've read, the less the positive offset, the more the tire sticks out past the fenders (ex +25 would stick out more than +44. Once you go negative then it could become an issue). Is that correct?

LT - Light Truck
285 - ?
65 - ?
R - ?
18 - Wheel Diameter
125 - ?
122 - ?
R - ?
E - ?
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When shopping, tire sizes are shown as such for a BFG KO2:

  • Size: LT285/65R18 125/122R E
Can someone please break down part of these numbers for me?

Essentially, I'm looking for a 35" tire on an 18" wheel, but am having a hard time understanding what means what and the size I'd be safe with. The idea is that I'd do very minimal off roading (basically only driving on the beach) and eventually, I'd be looking to tow a small boat under 5k lbs with trailer. Bouncing back and forth between Overland and Rubi on build.

Also, from what I've read, the less the positive offset, the more the tire sticks out past the fenders (ex +25 would stick out more than +44. Once you go negative then it could become an issue). Is that correct?

LT - Light Truck
285 - ?
65 - ?
R - ?
18 - Wheel Diameter
125 - ?
122 - ?
R - ?
E - ?
285- tread width in milimieters
65- sidewall height is this percentage of tread width
R- Radial
125/122R- Load and speed rating (106 mph for R)
E- Load range

https://www.tirebuyer.com/education...ratings-load-indexes-and-service-descriptions
 
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rvillano8188

rvillano8188

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285- tread width in milimieters
65- sidewall height is this percentage of tread width
R- Radial
125/122R- Load and speed rating (106 mph for R)
E- Load range
Thank You!

So this tire would equate to what size? can you even tell from this detail?
 

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If you want a 35" tire, then buy a 35x12.50 for a 18" wheel. Easy peasy.

If you're shopping metric sizes, I suppose a 315/65 or a 305/70 would get you close.
 

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rvillano8188

rvillano8188

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If you want a 35" tire, then buy a 35x12.50 for a 18" wheel. Easy peasy.

If you're shopping metric sizes, I suppose a 315/65 or a 305/70 would get you close.
Thank you, I guess this was the differentiation I was looking for. Some websites only go by one size, others by the other size measurement. I thought this was 'merica and the metric system didn't matter!
 

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When shopping, tire sizes are shown as such for a BFG KO2:

  • Size: LT285/65R18 125/122R E
Can someone please break down part of these numbers for me?

Essentially, I'm looking for a 35" tire on an 18" wheel, but am having a hard time understanding what means what and the size I'd be safe with. The idea is that I'd do very minimal off roading (basically only driving on the beach) and eventually, I'd be looking to tow a small boat under 5k lbs with trailer. Bouncing back and forth between Overland and Rubi on build.

Also, from what I've read, the less the positive offset, the more the tire sticks out past the fenders (ex +25 would stick out more than +44. Once you go negative then it could become an issue). Is that correct?

LT - Light Truck
285 - ?
65 - ?
R - ?
18 - Wheel Diameter
125 - ?
122 - ?
R - ?
E - ?
I would consider 295/70/18 or a 285/75/18 in a Nitto Ridge Grappler if you must go bigger than a stock Rubicon 33" tire. I run the 295/70/18 size in a mud terrain on my JL Wrangler. It measures out to be 34.29" in diameter by 11.77" wide. I prefer a little bit narrower tire than a 12.5" wide as I've found over the years that a wider tire tends to cause a little more wandering on the road as it grabs more of the road and the contour of the road. Now playing devil's advocate here, if you are only doing minimal off roading (mainly beach if I understood your post), why the lift? If this is your first Jeep which I'm assuming it is based on your questions, you are getting ready to dive into uncharted territory. Lifting a Jeep will alter it's handling and driving characteristics from stock form. Adding bigger and heavier tires will also change the ride of the Jeep from stock. Many new Jeep owners do this not knowing exactly what they are getting themselves into and then they regret it. It ends up being a very expensive venture for them in many ways and they eventually become so frustrated that they end up selling or trading their Jeep for a loss. A stock Rubicon will do everything you are looking for in a Jeep and then some. For your purposes there is no need to lift a stock Rubicon or put bigger tires on one. By the time you build up an Overland, you will have spent nearly the same amount if not more than you would have on a Rubicon. Trust me, I've been there. Good luck with your decision.
 
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rvillano8188

rvillano8188

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I would consider 295/70/18 or a 285/75/18 in a Nitto Ridge Grappler if you must go bigger than a stock Rubicon 33" tire. I run the 295/70/18 size in a mud terrain on my JL Wrangler. It measures out to be 34.29" in diameter by 11.77" wide. I prefer a little bit narrower tire than a 12.5" wide as I've found over the years that a wider tire tends to cause a little more wandering on the road as it grabs more of the road and the contour of the road. Now playing devil's advocate here, if you are only doing minimal off roading (mainly beach if I understood your post), why the lift? If this is your first Jeep which I'm assuming it is based on your questions, you are getting ready to dive into uncharted territory. Lifting a Jeep will alter it's handling and driving characteristics from stock form. Adding bigger and heavier tires will also change the ride of the Jeep from stock. Many new Jeep owners do this not knowing exactly what they are getting themselves into and then they regret it. It ends up being a very expensive venture for them in many ways and they eventually become so frustrated that they end up selling or trading their Jeep for a loss. A stock Rubicon will do everything you are looking for in a Jeep and then some. For your purposes there is no need to lift a stock Rubicon or put bigger tires on one. By the time you build up an Overland, you will have spent nearly the same amount if not more than you would have on a Rubicon. Trust me, I've been there. Good luck with your decision.
Thank you for all that info. I ended up ordering the Rubi for the exact reason you explained, plus I just find that they carry much better residual, I liked a few extras (hood, rock rails), and they can fit the 35’s without the need for a lift. I’ve done a few test drives, although I know that’s not the same as ownership, I think I’ll be more than happy with the tire only switch on stock rims and suspension.
 

NYR_4_LIFE

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will the Rubicon handle a 35 in tire and a18 in rim with out a lift .. the stock set up is 33in with 17in rim if im correct


looking at after market 18 in rims with 35 in tire
 

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Thank you for all that info. I ended up ordering the Rubi for the exact reason you explained, plus I just find that they carry much better residual, I liked a few extras (hood, rock rails), and they can fit the 35’s without the need for a lift. I’ve done a few test drives, although I know that’s not the same as ownership, I think I’ll be more than happy with the tire only switch on stock rims and suspension.
Glad I could help @rvillano8188 . I think you made a very wise decision. Good luck with your new Rubicon once she gets here.
 

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will the Rubicon handle a 35 in tire and a18 in rim with out a lift .. the stock set up is 33in with 17in rim if im correct


looking at after market 18 in rims with 35 in tire
Absolutely!
 

smess

$3200 diff between an Overland and Rubi (not to mention the additional $600 for the rear diff option in Overland that you might opt for), Overland has a 3.73, Rubi has a 4.10 and does not appear to have option to change when building. you are already talking about running a 35. re-gear is 4k so its a no brainer unless you want less power and more highway economy. looks like you live on Long Island so you probably don't care, if you tow or run in mountains or hills get the taller gear for sure. sand and pulling a boat get the rubi, better resale, better in snow, and sand and you will never grow out of it, Overland your needs might change and you will wish you had the diff lock, taller gear and the sway bar disconnect feature is also nice.
 
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rvillano8188

rvillano8188

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$3200 diff between an Overland and Rubi (not to mention the additional $600 for the rear diff option in Overland that you might opt for), Overland has a 3.73, Rubi has a 4.10 and does not appear to have option to change when building. you are already talking about running a 35. re-gear is 4k so its a no brainer unless you want less power and more highway economy. looks like you live on Long Island so you probably don't care, if you tow or run in mountains or hills get the taller gear for sure. sand and pulling a boat get the rubi, better resale, better in snow, and sand and you will never grow out of it, Overland your needs might change and you will wish you had the diff lock, taller gear and the sway bar disconnect feature is also nice.
So as I patiently wait for my Punk’n, I stopped by a local shop who had a nice white Rubi with some upgrades parked in front. Had 37” grapplers and fuel wheels. Spoke to the owner who had said he did just a straight RC leveling kit and had no rubbing. Maybe as I get closer to delivery I’ll ask for a ride around the block to feel the difference. I would assume you’d want to regear on 37’s, but he chose not to and said he’s more than happy with his setup. Thoughts?
 

LidLess07X

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Most 18’s limit you to an E-load range tire which I am not a fan of. They are really stiff. Basically a tire suited for a one ton truck

18’s are generally more expensive than 17’s as well

I just got Toyo Open Country M/T’s in a C-load range for my Rubi ((315/70/17 is a 35X12.50)

You may want to consider a full set of 17’s from someplace like Discount Tire Direct and then off loading the 18’s
 
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smess

So as I patiently wait for my Punk’n, I stopped by a local shop who had a nice white Rubi with some upgrades parked in front. Had 37” grapplers and fuel wheels. Spoke to the owner who had said he did just a straight RC leveling kit and had no rubbing. Maybe as I get closer to delivery I’ll ask for a ride around the block to feel the difference. I would assume you’d want to regear on 37’s, but he chose not to and said he’s more than happy with his setup. Thoughts?
I said in my earlier post that The Rubi you would not grow out of but with the Overland your needs might change. That has already happened and you have not bought the vehicle yet. You are now looking at 37's vs the 35's you originally wanted.

DO you need to re-gear with 37's if you got a Rubi with 4.10's the answer is no but that's the edge of re-gearing. If I was going off road and heavy snow and lived in the mountains I would go 4.56 so my Jeep was not constantly hunting for a gear downshifting. You are running moderate to light snow and flat in Long Island so it doesn't apply to you.

Do you need to re-gear with 37's if you got an Overland with 3.73's the answer is most wouldn't but yes I would.

Some people go for looks and like to keep the money in the pocket. When I build a Jeep I try to keep it within spec or better. There are very few cars that come that we can say have plenty of power, we always want more but under gearing a Jeep and making it look cool is pointless to me.

A Rubicon should be able to run 35's without any lift or leveling kit according to specs and what we read and hear.

If it were me and I have an LE that I have built it has the following:

Stock wheels and 315/70/17 and a Teraflex 1.5 inch leveling kit. The RC 2.5 is too much on a Rubi, it seems like you get reverse rake and then people want to lift the rear. Thats probably why Tera makes a 1.5 because they do a lot of R and D.

The reason the guy did the RC on the one you saw is because he was stuffing a 37 in there and didn't want it to rub.

If I lifted or went aftermarket wheels they would be a hub centric wheel with the same offset and backspacing as the stock wheels which very few are.

Would I do a Fuel- no. I like the way they look but they are the ME TOO wheel. Every Jeep has them and I like to have a unique Jeep.

Would I do a Nitto- no. I had a very bad experience with a set of Nittos and I think there are much better tires out there than Nittos for less money. Some like the look because they look aggressive but they are the ME TOO tire also.

I would never run a M/T Tire, they are loud and don't ride smooth unless they are on heavy vehicles. They are not designed for snow and I believe you live in NY.

There are several good aggressive looking A/T tires, when you decide exactly what you want, tell me the size and I will tell you which one I like. I have owned most of them at some point.

Buy a brand not a look. When you buy a look you can end up with a cool looking Jeep and drives like shit.
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