Torque specs for Gladiator?

[Geoarch]

Where can I get a list of the torque specs for the Gladiator? I searched, but nothing came up.

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[Gvsukids]

Where can I get a list of the torque specs for the Gladiator? I searched, but nothing came up.

Google found these... https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/torque-specs.29726/

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/torque-specs-sway-bar-links-track-bar-shocks.33193/

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/suspension-torque-specs.48822/

https://www.google.com/search?q=tor...cuAaoQrQIoBHoECAUQBQ&biw=376&bih=722&dpr=2.88

 

[Maximus Gladius]

The JL’s started it and have it covered.
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/torque-values-for-jeep-jl-wrangler.17791/

 

[notoriousms33]

Google found these... https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/torque-specs.29726/

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/torque-specs-sway-bar-links-track-bar-shocks.33193/

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/suspension-torque-specs.48822/

https://www.google.com/search?q=tor...cuAaoQrQIoBHoECAUQBQ&biw=376&bih=722&dpr=2.88

could you let me know what this torque bit inside the wheel is called and or torque spec? Got new cotter pins

 

[Hootbro]

could you let me know what this torque bit inside the wheel is called and or torque spec? Got new cotter pins

That is the lower ball joint. Updated Torque spec is 59 ft-lbs. If the castellated nut slots do not line up for the cotter pin, you tighten to the next slot that lines up.

There is some older references to 33 ft-lbs but that has been superseded by the attached TSB.

 

[notoriousms33]

That is the lower ball joint. Updated Torque spec is 59 ft-lbs. If the castellated nut slots do not line up for the cotter pin, you tighten to the next slot that lines up.

There is some older references to 33 ft-lbs but that has been superseded by the attached TSB.

this was probably the greatest feedback through out my forum exploration, AND with a bulletin.
@Lunentucker this is directed at YOU
SLOW DOWN OUT THERE

 

[Lunentucker]

this was probably the greatest feedback through out my forum exploration, AND with a bulletin.
@Lunentucker this is directed at YOU
SLOW DOWN OUT THERE

90 was a test. I don't drive 90 to the Dogen to pickup a roll of bounty

 

[notoriousms33]

That is the lower ball joint. Updated Torque spec is 59 ft-lbs. If the castellated nut slots do not line up for the cotter pin, you tighten to the next slot that lines up.

There is some older references to 33 ft-lbs but that has been superseded by the attached TSB.

Would this be considered track bar to axle? Off hand since I have my wheel off would you let me know what the torque spec if so

 

[Jeffjk]

Attached here are the Rubicon torque specification sheets from the MOTOR Driven Auto Repair Source Database. A quick look at other models (Mojave, etc) showed the numbers are generally the same. This references 33 ft-lbs (45 Nm) for the low ball joint which apparently was superseded by 59 ft-lbs (80 Nm) in the TSB from #5 in this thread.

Edit - Note: this is a third party DB and could be inaccurate as @ShadowsPapa mentions below, I added it for context so we can get to the right answers. I will provide feedback to the DB owner.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Would this be considered track bar to axle? Off hand since I have my wheel off would you let me know what the torque spec if so

No, that's tie rod.

Track bar to axle will be on the right side of the axle - front of the axle

 

[Jeffjk]

Would this be considered track bar to axle? Off hand since I have my wheel off would you let me know what the torque spec if so

That is the tie rod end nut. Attached is the procedure for tie rod repair and replacement (including torque specs) from the MOTOR Driven Auto Repair Source Database.
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Take a look at figure 1 which has the bolts highlighted and the corresponding installation steps 5 & 6 (for lefthand drive). Torque tie rod end nut (2) to 64 Nm. (47 ft. lbs.).

Edit - Note: this is a third party DB and could be inaccurate as @ShadowsPapa mentions below, I added it for context so we can get to the right answers. I will provide feedback to the DB owner if we find a true answer.

 

[Jeffjk]

No, that's tie rod.

Track bar to axle will be on the right side of the axle - front of the axle

Attached is the procedure for track bar repair and replacement (including torque specs) from the MOTOR Driven Auto Repair Source database.

Edit - Note: this is a third party DB and could be inaccurate as @ShadowsPapa mentions below, I added it for context so we can get to the right answers. I will provide feedback to the DB owner if we find a better answer.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Attached here are the Track Bar repair and replacement instructions (including torque specs) from the MOTOR Driven Auto Repair Source database.

Sorry but their track bar torque specs aren't correct. The factory specs are torque plus degrees.

Not sure why they refer to upper and lower - maybe they mean frame and axle.

The problem with 3rd party specs is that they are too often not correct or don't keep up.
Track bar frame bolt, for example, is 52 plus 115 degrees.
Track bar axle bolt is 52 plus 155 degrees (my file is blurry, I'll have to check with my contact to verify that)
I've found the typical torque only on things like track bar and control arms is too loose compared to factory specs.

 

[Jeffjk]

Sorry but their track bar torque specs aren't correct. The factory specs are torque plus degrees.

Not sure why they refer to upper and lower - maybe they mean frame and axle.

The problem with 3rd party specs is that they are too often not correct or don't keep up.
Track bar frame bolt, for example, is 52 plus 115 degrees.
Track bar axle bolt is 52 plus 155 degrees (my file is blurry, I'll have to check with my contact to verify that)
I've found the typical torque only on things like track bar and control arms is too loose compared to factory specs.

No problem. Agreed, I always find myself having to go thru multiple sources and TSBs to confirm. I just figured I’d add these to the discussion so we can get to the right answers as a community. It is often confusing how they reference things in various sources and TSBs. I often find myself tightening a bit more on various components as well.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

No problem. Agreed, I always find myself having to go thru multiple sources and TSBs to confirm. I just figured I’d add these to the discussion so we can get to the right answers as a community. It is often confusing how they reference things in various sources and TSBs.

Absolutely!

I have the original factory specs, just for example, for one of my cars for alignment. Take it to a shop, and they use those exact same specs as that's what is in their computers and if they look it up, the internet agrees.
The problem is that there was a supplemental book months later that changed the specs - Motor, Mitchell and others didn't keep up so all published specs are old specs.

Research used to be part of my job.

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