kayakmike
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- First Name
- Mike
- Joined
- Jan 23, 2019
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- 1,136
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- Location
- Ramona, CA
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- 2020 Jeep Gladiator Granite Crystal Metallic Launch Edition
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- Rocket Scientist
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- #1
Posted this on my build page. Reposting here since lessons learned may apply to other brake controller install, especially with ones that use the Teknosha wiring harness. Similar problems to @Combolc with his Curt Brake Harness.
Brake Controller Install
A few lessons learned on this one, that should also apply to other brake controllers, especially with Tekonsha cabled connectors.
I had tried several brake controllers on my last several vehicles. On my 2014 EcoDiesel Grand Cherokee, I bought a Tuson Direclink brake controller, and this is by far the best brake controller I've ever used. So when I sold my GC, I pulled the brake controller off to use on my Gladiator (one less thing to buy on the new JT!). This brake controller allows you to adjust different settings for low and high speed travel, different trailer sizes, and also can display other vehicle info (transmission temperature, RPMs, etc.) on the hand controller.
Most of the brake controller tucks up under the dash. One cable plugs into the OBD-II connector (and can be easily unplugged when taking it in for service), another one plugs into the vehicle's brake controller wiring using the same Tekonsha style brake controller connector, and the third connects to the removable hand controller with a 4 pin telephone jack. On my GC, I'd suction the hand controller to the windshield on the left side of the steering wheel and also have a ScanGuage II mounted on it to monitor the diesel temps while towing (I don't plan to use the ScanGuage with the Gladiator). I could remove the hand controller when not towing and stash it in the center console.
When I bought the brake controller originally for the GC, I ended up with an extra 3045 cable that is needed for the GC. I thought I could use that for the Gladiator, but when I went to install, I noticed the vehicle side connectors were the same gender. Strike one.
So I looked on line and saw that I needed the 3014 cable. I wired it up with the 3014 cable. At first everything seemed to work. But in my shop, when I pushed the manual brake switch, dashboard lit up with check engine light, service ABS system, and a few other errors. Oops...strike two.
A little google searching I found this post on the JL forum. It seems that with the 3014 cable (Jeep Cherokee cable), without in line diodes, the brake controller will work fine most of the time, but if you press the manual override, it will back feed voltage into the vehicle electronics, which is why my dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree.
A little google searching I found this post on the JL forum. This is the definitive solution for wiring a brake controller on the Gladiator. I bought the 3024 cable (RAM 1500/2500/3500 cable). I decided to use a pin extractor to swap the black and blue wires. You could cut and splice the two wires, but extracting/swapping the pins is super easy. Pull out the green retaining clip. Extract the pins with a pin extractor (a small screwdriver or awl may also work). Pull the two wires out, bend back the pin retainer if needed, then snap back in the pins and reinsert the green retainer clip.
The brake controller install was pretty simple. The brake controller connector is located on the left side of the drivers compartment (photo below is looking straight up from the drivers floor board with the brake pedal visible on the right). Once I wired up the 3024 cable, routed the other cable to the OBD-II plug. I decided to mount the controller to the left side of the driver compartment just below the brake controller cable by zip tying it to the metal bracket just above the plastic trim. This allows easy access to plug the hand controller in when needed.
As mentioned in the JL forum post, the brake controller works fine in this configuration. The one gotcha is that the trailer brake lights will not light up when pushing the manual brake control. The solution is to add the Tekonsha Brake Light Kit #30235. For now I'm only using my heavy dump trailer on my property, so I'm not worried about brake lights. Eventually I'll probably add that kit.
Brake Controller Install
A few lessons learned on this one, that should also apply to other brake controllers, especially with Tekonsha cabled connectors.
I had tried several brake controllers on my last several vehicles. On my 2014 EcoDiesel Grand Cherokee, I bought a Tuson Direclink brake controller, and this is by far the best brake controller I've ever used. So when I sold my GC, I pulled the brake controller off to use on my Gladiator (one less thing to buy on the new JT!). This brake controller allows you to adjust different settings for low and high speed travel, different trailer sizes, and also can display other vehicle info (transmission temperature, RPMs, etc.) on the hand controller.
Most of the brake controller tucks up under the dash. One cable plugs into the OBD-II connector (and can be easily unplugged when taking it in for service), another one plugs into the vehicle's brake controller wiring using the same Tekonsha style brake controller connector, and the third connects to the removable hand controller with a 4 pin telephone jack. On my GC, I'd suction the hand controller to the windshield on the left side of the steering wheel and also have a ScanGuage II mounted on it to monitor the diesel temps while towing (I don't plan to use the ScanGuage with the Gladiator). I could remove the hand controller when not towing and stash it in the center console.
When I bought the brake controller originally for the GC, I ended up with an extra 3045 cable that is needed for the GC. I thought I could use that for the Gladiator, but when I went to install, I noticed the vehicle side connectors were the same gender. Strike one.
So I looked on line and saw that I needed the 3014 cable. I wired it up with the 3014 cable. At first everything seemed to work. But in my shop, when I pushed the manual brake switch, dashboard lit up with check engine light, service ABS system, and a few other errors. Oops...strike two.
A little google searching I found this post on the JL forum. It seems that with the 3014 cable (Jeep Cherokee cable), without in line diodes, the brake controller will work fine most of the time, but if you press the manual override, it will back feed voltage into the vehicle electronics, which is why my dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree.
A little google searching I found this post on the JL forum. This is the definitive solution for wiring a brake controller on the Gladiator. I bought the 3024 cable (RAM 1500/2500/3500 cable). I decided to use a pin extractor to swap the black and blue wires. You could cut and splice the two wires, but extracting/swapping the pins is super easy. Pull out the green retaining clip. Extract the pins with a pin extractor (a small screwdriver or awl may also work). Pull the two wires out, bend back the pin retainer if needed, then snap back in the pins and reinsert the green retainer clip.
The brake controller install was pretty simple. The brake controller connector is located on the left side of the drivers compartment (photo below is looking straight up from the drivers floor board with the brake pedal visible on the right). Once I wired up the 3024 cable, routed the other cable to the OBD-II plug. I decided to mount the controller to the left side of the driver compartment just below the brake controller cable by zip tying it to the metal bracket just above the plastic trim. This allows easy access to plug the hand controller in when needed.
As mentioned in the JL forum post, the brake controller works fine in this configuration. The one gotcha is that the trailer brake lights will not light up when pushing the manual brake control. The solution is to add the Tekonsha Brake Light Kit #30235. For now I'm only using my heavy dump trailer on my property, so I'm not worried about brake lights. Eventually I'll probably add that kit.
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