What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS]

ShrimpHappens

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Saturday I put Rubicon shocks/springs on my Sport S (non max tow); I only gained about 1/2" all around. I was expecting closer to an inch, so I'm a little disappointed.

Nevertheless, took it to the dealer for the steering box swap and a new set of tires: Toyo A/T III in the OEM Rubicon spec, 285/70R17 load range C. I reckon they must've updated the computer as well, because the speedometer matches two different phone GPS's.

At 60mph, there is no problem holding 8th gear on the 33's with my 3.73:1 rear end.

Before
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After
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ShadowsPapa

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Saturday I put Rubicon shocks/springs on my Sport S (non max tow); I only gained about 1/2" all around. I was expecting closer to an inch, so I'm a little disappointed.

Nevertheless, took it to the dealer for the steering box swap and a new set of tires: Toyo A/T III in the OEM Rubicon spec, 285/70R17 load range C. I reckon they must've updated the computer as well, because the speedometer matches two different phone GPS's.

At 60mph, there is no problem holding 8th gear on the 33's with my 3.73:1 rear end.

Before
PXL_20221118_215227728.jpg


After
PXL_20221122_200050327.jpg
Which Rubicon springs? There's more than one set.
The light number Rubicon springs lifted my Overland almost 1" (about 7/8")
Did you loosen ALL of the suspension joints - both ends of all control arms, both ends of the track bars, etc. and then tighten them to torque again with it all on the ground?
If you didn't loosen EVERYTHING, then there's tension on the bushings and it could be holding things down.

I reckon they must've updated the computer as well, because the speedometer matches two different phone GPS's.
With the phone not connected to the truck, correct?
 

trust

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It isn't quite done and I didn't do it all today but I'm making glacial progress on my new bed cover set up. Stoll not sure I even like it but it was ~1/3 of diamond back. Please forgive the mess znd crap, I haven't vacumed it out

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trust

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And then didn't let it. Attach.. is there a rule of thumb to figure out what pneumatic lift cylinders to get. Just try some?
.

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SargeDiesel

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Yes, it is. I saw some comments on the forum about it. I need something that won't move when trying to put my phone in or take it out, and that's closer to me, the driver. Arthritis, "essential tremor" in right hand - I need something that doesn't move as I aim for it LOL
I've not actually used it yet for phone, but it seems you can really crank it tight and the textured (knurled?) balls hold well.
Now to figure out what the other things were that were in that box - I get the bottle opener (it's really a cool idea that will be handy at our car shows, races and swap meets when the coolers open up), but the black metal "F" shaped piece I've yet to figure out.
the "F" shape key is used to tighten the wing nut knobs... it's a little tricky, but try it and you will see how it works together. It allows you to add a tremendous amount of torque to the ball joint in order to keep it tight.
 
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ShrimpHappens

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@ShadowsPapa

Which Rubicon springs? There's more than one set.
Fronts are 6362AA and 6363AA. Rears are 6209AA and 6210AA. I've seen your posts about that; fascinating info.

Did you loosen ALL of the suspension joints - both ends of all control arms, both ends of the track bars, etc. and then tighten them to torque again with it all on the ground?
No.

If you didn't loosen EVERYTHING, then there's tension on the bushings and it could be holding things down.
You serious, Clark? I know that this is mandatory with a more substantive (i.e. 2"+) lift but didn't think it was necessary for just this. I've read on here that you have to tighten when on the ground, but do I loosen on the ground or with axles dangling?

With the phone not connected to the truck, correct?
Correct. Had read on here about that from others. Had two phones going at once: my personal phone unplugged from Android Auto and my work phone that's never even been connected to my bluetooth. All were showing the same thing.
 

ShadowsPapa

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If you didn't loosen EVERYTHING, then there's tension on the bushings and it could be holding things down.
You serious, Clark? I know that this is mandatory with a more substantive (i.e. 2"+) lift but didn't think it was necessary for just this. I've read on here that you have to tighten when on the ground, but do I loosen on the ground or with axles dangling?
Any time you change the curb height - via springs, spacers, or magic mushrooms, you need to loosen things. Otherwise there is unnatural tension on the bushings.

You did a spring swap and didn't loosen the parts? I bet you had to pry things down.

Not saying that it IS doing it, but it's very possible, and I have indeed seen it, where bushing tension either prevented a vehicle from moving up with longer springs, or moving down with shorter springs. This is because the bushings themselves act like springs. they are intended to be tension-neutral when at normal curb height. Spring changes change curb height.
Having to pry down on parts to swap springs is proof that the bushings are resisting your efforts at change.

I'm sure some will say "naw, I never do" but then they never worked in a product shop or had factory training on suspension and steering. They learned from others who I'd never hire for my shop LOL
 

ShadowsPapa

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the "F" shape key is used to tighten the wing nut knobs... it's a little tricky, but try it and you will see how it works together. It allows you to add a tremendous amount of torque to the ball joint in order to keep it tight.
Yeah, I figure out it was a spanner. It's laying in the top of dash tray now to be handy although I likely won't move it much.
It's so solid I can leave my plow control hanging in it and push the buttons without lifting the control out of the mount I made.
 


SargeDiesel

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Yeah, I figure out it was a spanner. It's laying in the top of dash tray now to be handy although I likely won't move it much.
It's so solid I can leave my plow control hanging in it and push the buttons without lifting the control out of the mount I made.
Yeah, I leave mine in the top console with my hood/trailer hitch keys. I have the 2 cell phone / gopro setup... Only issue I've ever had was when my buddy used the passenger side for his phone and he grabbed it like a microphone and push/swiveled the whole arm towards me and then back towards him to show me a pic on his phone..... I was like..."NOT DESIGNED TO DO THAT " ! ha ha
 

ShrimpHappens

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You did a spring swap and didn't loosen the parts? I bet you had to pry things down.

Having to pry down on parts to swap springs is proof that the bushings are resisting your efforts at change.
Yep, had to pry stuff down. Front only needed a little coaxing by hand. Had to get a 3' pry bar out for the rear. It makes sense how the position at which the bushings were originally torqued could be limiting my springs from reaching their actual ride height.

Well ok, I guess I know what I'm doing again this weekend. So again, loosen everything and let it dangle before setting and torquing? Or loosen as-is on the ground, maybe jostle it around a bit, and then torque?
 

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Added this today.....I've had a good relationship with Mishimoto over the years.

This intake and the iDrive EVC set at U.3.....its actually exceeding my expectations with this 3.6 on 37s. I should be ordering the AWE Trail exhaust next week. I think that will more than hold me over til I decide to do 4.88s

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