KurtP
Well-Known Member
i have a camera that captures you in mental maturityI pictured you being older.
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i have a camera that captures you in mental maturityI pictured you being older.
Thank you for the advice! I have a 24" breaker bar so I'm set there. As for the bit, it is in fact a T50, correct? Double checking as I'd read in another thread how that didn't work and it stripped the bolt. I'm definitely getting these, and like you may likely go with two pairs for aesthetic reasons.You need to be careful that you don't strip the heads. I used a 24" breaker bar. Then I aligned the bit as straight as I could and hit the bar with a mallet to drive the bit in better. If you don't do that then the paint will stop it from going in all the way and it may slip/strip. Make sure you keep the breaker handle aligned with the side of the Jeep so it doesn't twist the bit out. Keep pressure on the bar pushing towards the Jeep of course. It was the worst part of the job. I was relieved every time I heard the snap of the bolt breaking free. I was thinking that there was a good chance I'd be drilling one out before the day was done.
I did semi-strip one of the replacement bolt heads unfortunately. I was torquing to 19 and got a little misaligned on one. I think it will still back out but I'm just leaving that one alone for now.
I also had to loosen the top hitch bolts quite a bit on two of them in order to install the bracket on the bottom. I had to position the bottom of the step outside of the bracket to install it and then go back to the mallet to get it in place after the bracket was installed.
Overall a very high quality kit as you would expect from Metalcloak.
I considered only doing the back doors. Those are definitely the most useful ones and all you really need. The fronts may come in handy putting kayaks up, but I also decided partly on the look of it.
You're welcome! It's really not that bad of a job. As long as you don't strip a door bolt!Thank you for the advice! I have a 24" breaker bar so I'm set there. As for the bit, it is in fact a T50, correct? Double checking as I'd read in another thread how that didn't work and it stripped the bolt. I'm definitely getting these, and like you may likely go with two pairs for aesthetic reasons.
My son-in -law calls his the “Warranty Buster 3000.”Thank you for the advice! I have a 24" breaker bar so I'm set there....
All it took was 2 cans of each for all 4 fenders? How does the texture look compared to the factory textured plastics?Swapped out my Max Tow flares for Rubicon flares w/led's.
Can't really tell from these pics, but the Rubi fenders are 2K Raptor lined and 2K SprayMax clear coated
I hope so. I ordered one the other day. Giving up my afe cold air intake, to get a snorkle. Still want some sound.The OEM filter box is big enough to fit that? I admit I have not paid much attention to it, but none of my other vehicles have had that kind of space. I may have too look into one of those.
Yes, 2 cans of each (actual Coors Lights consumed not all pictured).All it took was 2 cans of each for all 4 fenders? How does the texture look compared to the factory textured plastics?
So you just destroyed the rubicon letters? And left the remaining scraps?I don't get that. Killing my OCDHood cut out is optional. Here is mine.
Just take off the "CON" so it says "RUBI"?So you just destroyed the rubicon letters? And left the remaining scraps?I don't get that. Killing my OCD
Thanks for sharing! I may do this to some Rubicon Fenders I have that are not the right color.Yes, 2 cans of each (actual Coors Lights consumed not all pictured).
Didn't look bad after the 1st can of Raptor, but the 2nd can really gave it a nice texture.
Definitely more of a texture with the Raptor over the factory plastic feel.