What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS]

[cmak0]

Unfortunately I had to learn this lesson again. Don’t buy cheap parts. I made exception for skyjacker sway bar links because….how does someone screw that up?

By using cheap bolts and bushings that shrink. Ugh. Didn’t even last 6mos.

Swallped out MC links.

Good luck, I’ve replaced my MC links three times on my JK because the nut comes lose on the sway bar end and strips the threads. Not sure what brand I’ll use on my JT once I get it

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[HikerBob]

Me too! Really like the look and functionality of these. Went on pretty easy, too.

Do they cover the gap below the door and the frame? Are they textured black or bed liner coated? What’s better?

 

[TexasTJ]

I too am in the market for new front sway bar links. Was using the e-disconnect and it still pulled the bolt straight through the nut.

 

[DocMike]

You'd need to drill the boards in a different spot. I just used the factory holes.
But if you look here, it could possibly work.

Do you have enough room to mount them lower if you needed too? I've been looking for a similar solution but it looks like they wouldn't clear my tonneau.

 

[HooliganActual]

I too am in the market for new front sway bar links. Was using the e-disconnect and it still pulled the bolt straight through the nut.

Are you lifted? I'm certainly no expert here but on my JKU Rubicon I had the same problem. Installed an AEV 2.5" lift and was constantly popping the passenger side even when disconnected. The "trick" on the JK's was to pull the rear disconnects and install them up front and then buy replacements for the rear.

That said, if you are lifted, you're disconnect links may not actually be long enough. The sway bar arm connected to the link should be parallel to the ground when not flexed.

 

[Chestnut]

Mounted some flaps, mainly to help keep snow, salt, and ice off the side. Mounting was prety easy except for the fronts. The factory notch didn't fit around the overland fender very well. I didn't want to cut out the running board.

Quick trip to the band saw made the notch a bit bigger and made install a lot easier.

For being a square there are quite a few odd subtle curves that mess with my brain.

 

[Oracle Designs]

@Rares I would have to agree with @balucipher. While LED bulbs are a general cost effective solution, aftermarket headlights do provide more of a cut-off line and can be more appealing for both yourself and oncoming traffic. Take a look at the image below:

A complete headlight replacement will have a better light beam than a standard LED bulb upgrade. We designed our unit to have optimum light distribution and beam angles. If you look at the OEM Jeep LEDs, and compair them to our Oculus headlight, you can see light being projected in a lot of different directions. But more importantly, it is going above the cut-off line.

A cut-off line is a beam patterning tool for road illumination and for oncoming protection of excessive glare. When looking at the ORACLE Oculus light beam pattern, you can see a clear beam line. There is a line that is elevated and one that is lowered. The elevated light is supposed to be for the driver and the lowered light is meant for oncoming traffic. If there is light going above the elevated line, this is referred as glare.

The light responsible for glare is not great for oncoming traffic. You can probably think of some instances on the road where you are driving and a person looks like they are driving with brights. In reality, it's only a bulb upgrade. It is important to remember that halogen units were designed specifically for halogen bulbs and not for LED bulbs. If you replace the the halogen lights with the a standard LED bulbs, you would have the a more intense light output with extreme glare.

Light focus is very important for not only driver safety but others on the road who can potentially have their vision obstructed by glare. This is especially significant on lifted vehicles, where the light source is raised and in a position that would interfere with another driver's field of vision. Our Oculus headlights feature a very sharp cut-off line and focus light with precision specifically to avoid such issues (as seen in the image above). With these headlights, you can also adjust the cut-off line so that it fits perfectly for your build.

If you are interested in more info on our headlights, feel free to check them out here. Hope this explanation helps!

-Anthony

 

[raypla]

Got some door sill protectors

Glad I went with these vs black plastic, they really pop in this configuration

21’ JTRD

 

[Rob0ffRoad]

Installed 5' ROAM Adventure Co. awning on the back of my rack. Needed coverage when working out of the tailgate. Pretty cool awning and good internal frame design so you don't have to use stakes for a temporary setup on a hard surface (if no significant wind) tailgating, working in the boatyard, etc...

 

[Sarge502]

Adding Rubi take offs

 

[MojaveAZ2020]

Installed a couple removable rear ladder racks. I figure I could strap a Kayak on and if need be carry lumber longer than 8’.

That's intense antena install as well! ;-) lol

 

[DocMike]

GOLD
Going to pull it into the shop tomorrow and torque it properly.

 

[Tanners Owner]

Dropped it off at the repair shop. Hopefully no supply chain woes. Anticipating needing tailgate, rear bumper, trailer hitch at minimum.

I get rental coverage so, I am driving a Dodge POC

Contacted my insurance company


was rear ended by a SUV that was rear ended by another PU truck

looks like I’ll need a new tailgate and rear bumper at least. Drove home fine, but do have concerns about suspension, alignment, drivetrain stresses that may not show up right away.

The SUV driver said he wanted to get a Jeep after seeing his damage compared to mine.

And of course the instigator (PU driver) doesn’t have insurance………

 

[obz]

Installed my new rear bumper and lights then switched up the hood decal and emblems. All on my mission to remove the red...

 

[JoeDoc]

That's intense antena install as well! ;-) lol

Great receptIon !

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