Boostnu
Well-Known Member
- First Name
- Chris
- Joined
- Mar 21, 2021
- Threads
- 20
- Messages
- 420
- Reaction score
- 653
- Location
- Calhoun Tn
- Vehicle(s)
- 2021 Jeep gladiator
- Occupation
- Machinist
Made the jump to 37s.
Sponsored
Yes, they cover the seam well, especially in the middle. They don’t curve with the body as well as the factory rails did, so there are larger gaps at the front and back, but only noticeable when you get up close. These are bedliner coated and I like that better due to the look and the extra grip, but up to you as to whether it’s worth the extra $ over the black powder coat. I got a good deal on them from Tactik on Amazon, but actually getting them was a headache. They send me the wrong ones twice.Do they cover the gap below the door and the frame? Are they textured black or bed liner coated? What’s better?
Ahhh, so the molle panels could be drilled to fit parts under the bed cover, didn't think of that option.You'd need to drill the boards in a different spot. I just used the factory holes.
But if you look here, it could possibly work.
thanks! Depending on what boards are used and where you place the mounts they sit in different locations. I have the MK2 MaxTrax boards.Ahhh, so the molle panels could be drilled to fit parts under the bed cover, didn't think of that option.
I think @eight13design has done a great job with these panels.
Here's my cutoff with replacement LED bulbs in my halogen light housing. It is not as sharp as the Oracle replacements but at 1/10th of the price it has been a great investment. I have 4.5" Evo springs and 40" tires and my light beam is lowered substantially to prevent blinding oncoming traffic due to the heighth of my truck. It is 100% better than the factory halogen bulbs which is what most people are trying to achieve.I addressed this already later in the thread. You're likely enjoying brighter lights from your driver seat at the cost of terrible light throw and blinding oncoming traffic. Post your headlight cutoffs and compare them with the @Oracle Designs cutoff or OEM Mopar cutoff
Here's a Tacoma forum write-up
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/why-leds-should-not-be-run-in-halogen-reflectors.454371/
Are you lifted? I'm certainly no expert here but on my JKU Rubicon I had the same problem. Installed an AEV 2.5" lift and was constantly popping the passenger side even when disconnected. The "trick" on the JK's was to pull the rear disconnects and install them up front and then buy replacements for the rear.
That said, if you are lifted, you're disconnect links may not actually be long enough. The sway bar arm connected to the link should be parallel to the ground when not flexed.
Here's my cutoff with replacement LED bulbs in my halogen light housing. It is not as sharp as the Oracle replacements but at 1/10th of the price it has been a great investment. I have 4.5" Evo springs and 40" tires and my light beam is lowered substantially to prevent blinding oncoming traffic due to the heighth of my truck. It is 100% better than the factory halogen bulbs which is what most people are trying to achieve.
Tested my new air compressor.
I did the exact same exchange! I couldn't believe how difficult the JKS ones were to disconnect/reconnect. I went with the Apex disco's after seeing them on a buddy's JK. They are beyond amazing, and very nice looking, too.Uninstalled the JKS Quicker disconnects so I could install Apex
AutoLYNX disconnects. After 2 desert seasons having to struggle reconnecting (at least half of all reconnects involved using the hammer), I bought these sweet beauties. They arrived within a week of ordering. Installed this morning.
I disconnected by turning the switch on each side and drove a few miles around my neighborhood then reconnected by turning the switches back and pushing one side down until it locked. Normal driving will lock the other side into place. Looking forward to our next offroad trip to the desert.
T