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Wheel Offset Question

WILDHOBO

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I’m a typical Jeeper. My rig is working perfectly, and needs nothing, so the itch has started. I can’t eat. I can’t sleep. It’s been weeks since I’ve ordered a part.

I’m running 37x12.5x17 Mickey Thomsons on stock rubicon wheels with spidertrax 1.75” spacers. It’s working great and I like the current stance and slight poke. It also doesn’t rub at full lock. If at some point if I decide to swap the wheels and eliminate the spacers, could someone help with the proper offset to match what I have now? Meaning the current combination of rubicon wheels plus 1.75” of spacer. I’m thinking I’d need to know the existing rubicon wheel offset, then add 1.75”? Thanks in advance. Please refrain from negative opinions about spacers. They aren’t an issue. I’m just starting to get lots of trail rash on the wheels. If I replaced them, it just seems silly to choose one that needs a spacer.
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Yes the stock are +44 on most models. Mojave rims may be different, but stock Rubi and Overland etc are +44.

Anyways, it's stamped on the inside of the rim you can always crawl under and verify.
 
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So to maintain the same setup I currently have with the spacers at 1.75”, here’s my question. 1.75” equals 44.45mm. Does that mean I need an 88mm offset, or is it reversed? Do I need 0 offset if the two 44mm measurements cancel each other?
 

Dougstdig

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I’m a typical Jeeper. My rig is working perfectly, and needs nothing, so the itch has started. I can’t eat. I can’t sleep. It’s been weeks since I’ve ordered a part.

I’m running 37x12.5x17 Mickey Thomsons on stock rubicon wheels with spidertrax 1.75” spacers. It’s working great and I like the current stance and slight poke. It also doesn’t rub at full lock. If at some point if I decide to swap the wheels and eliminate the spacers, could someone help with the proper offset to match what I have now? Meaning the current combination of rubicon wheels plus 1.75” of spacer. I’m thinking I’d need to know the existing rubicon wheel offset, then add 1.75”? Thanks in advance. Please refrain from negative opinions about spacers. They aren’t an issue. I’m just starting to get lots of trail rash on the wheels. If I replaced them, it just seems silly to choose one that needs a spacer.
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The way my math works stock is +44 and you’re essentially adding a -44 spacer to equal 0. So 0 offset should be equivalent to what you’re doing with the spacer. Except aftermarket wheels will almost all be wider than your stock wheel so it’ll end up a touch different.
 

Dougstdig

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So if I read this correctly. -18 would be correct. Sound right? Thanks.
Sounds high to me. What width wheel are you looking at?

The highest offset I’ve heard from lift manufacturers is 4.5 on an 8 1/2. AEV uses +25. Mopar off-road wheels are +12. I think Clayton recommends 4.75in.
 

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Dougstdig

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The way my math works stock is +44 and you’re essentially adding a -44 spacer to equal 0. So 0 offset should be equivalent to what you’re doing with the spacer. Except aftermarket wheels will almost all be wider than your stock wheel so it’ll end up a touch different.
…that’s 3.75 on a 7.5 inch whose wheel. I’d he’s purchasing new wheels I’d go no thinner than 8.5, which would make by a 0-offset 4.25. Again…lift manufacturers say 4.5 to 4.75.
 

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Very helpful. Thanks everyone. Very good point. I’d expect I’d find 8.5 or 9” wheels. Any opinions on the difference from a performance standpoint? I’m a function over cosmetics person, but like things that work well, to also look good.
 

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Very helpful. Thanks everyone. Very good point. I’d expect I’d find 8.5 or 9” wheels. Any opinions on the difference from a performance standpoint? I’m a function over cosmetics person, but like things that work well, to also look good.
performance wise you want as little poke as possible. This will lessen your scrub radius, make it easier to turn the wheel at slow and/or aired down pressures and will help your ball joints live their longest life. I’m pretty positive that’s one reason AEV runs +25 and gets a pass from Jeep. All my figures are using 8.5 width. While I’m not at all interested in mall crawlers, I do want to try and keep the wheels looking good as long as I can and the narrower width will help protect them and allow you to drive more on your sidewalks. Also, 8 is typically listed on tire manufacturers spec sheets/pages as the narrowest for the 12.5 width tires, but I’m not aware of any popular wheels coming in an 8” wide wheel. The next closest is 8.5 and tons come in that size. Really the only 9” I’d consider is the Hutchison Rock monster, but they’re heavy.
 
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WILDHOBO

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performance wise you want as little poke as possible. This will lessen your scrub radius, make it easier to turn the wheel at slow and/or aired down pressures and will help your ball joints live their longest life. I’m pretty positive that’s one reason AEV runs +25 and gets a pass from Jeep. All my figures are using 8.5 width. While I’m not at all interested in mall crawlers, I do want to try and keep the wheels looking good as long as I can and the narrower width will help protect them and allow you to drive more on your sidewalks. Also, 8 is typically listed on tire manufacturers spec sheets/pages as the narrowest for the 12.5 width tires, but I’m not aware of any popular wheels coming in an 8” wide wheel. The next closest is 8.5 and tons come in that size. Really the only 9” I’d consider is the Hutchison Rock monster, but they’re heavy.
I like light wheels. I don’t mind the slight poke as it offsets the extra height from the lift in relation to stability. The weight is largely why I stuck with stock wheels for now. Lots of aftermarket wheels are way too heavy imo. I definitely don’t have a mall crawler. Only function.
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