where are you powering the winch?

[361Sean]

Got plenty of time on my hands so I am thinking about a winch. I see alot of instructions say to directly wire it to the batery. Would it get enough juice by using one of the aux switches?
Thanks

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[DiscoDino]

Power from the battery, switch can be anything after the solenoid pack...

 

[Aberk]

Wired mine to the battery

 

[Harold0819]

Most wire it right to the battery. I used a Warn interrupter and have that controlled via one of the Aux switches. This allows the wires to the winch to not be live all the time. I have the switch mounted next to my batteries.

 

[ACAD_Cowboy]

The aux switches can't handle the amps the winch would draw.

The winch should go back to the battery.

 

[Harold0819]

The aux switches can't handle the amps the winch would draw.

The winch should go back to the battery.

The winch is connected to the battery. The warn interrupter switch is wired to the aux switches. The warn switch only needs 5 amps to run. It is essentially a high amperage relay.

 

[361Sean]

Thanks everyone. That answered my questions. I may look into your device. I just dont want the winch HOT all the time.

 

[ACAD_Cowboy]

The winch, any winch, wouldn't be hot all the time. The only time high amp current is flowing it is when the controller closes the contacts on the relay.

The controller completes either the forward or reverse rotation relay circuits. Harold has a secondary relay circuit that controls overall power supply so a problem with a positive cable won't lead to grounding out or a voltage leak that kills the battery. Basically a collection of ford type starter relays and easily home built.

Now a word on duty cycle. Im a hydro winch guy and the upsides are quiet, waterproof and 100% duty cycle. But only when the pump is driven by the engine. Electric winches typically are advised a 50% duty cycle, 30 seconds on/30 rest to cool. They can also be used with the engine off, but not for long.

A good example of the difference would be a steep decent that puts you on the front bumper and perhaps grounded on the rear. Can't crawl you way out and you need to shut the engine down quick to avoid running dry and hydrolocking at the same time.

I'm stuck getting tug or using a manual winch while the electric has hopefully enough reserve capacity in the battery to pull you enough to land a wheel or two and still start. If you're expecting to be the guy everyone calls I'd invest in a good dual battery setup to have starting power when you need it and duplex amp when its tug time.

 

[LostWoods]

For a trail rig it's ok to go battery straight to winch but for a daily, battery to cutoff to winch without question. I've seen what happens in an accident that pinches the winch power cable and there wasn't much left of that truck once the fire department was done with it. Either way it has to come from the battery because you're looking at some fat power cables to get that kind of juice.

Blue Sea Systems make a bunch at reasonable prices that are top notch. Just be sure to read the fine print because the 300A rating on them that they advertise is at 100% duty cycle... meaning they're more than fine for the ~400A of even a nice winch and the winch will burn out before you smoke one of them.

 

[361Sean]

More great info. Thanks. I was thinking either cut off switch or simply remove the ground when not wheeling.

 

[Alabama Mud Machine]

Most wire it right to the battery. I used a Warn interrupter and have that controlled via one of the Aux switches. This allows the wires to the winch to not be live all the time. I have the switch mounted next to my batteries.

What the holy mother of god is that Mongolian clusterfuck???

Seriously...For the first time ever on a truck I have no idea WTF I’m looking at...

 

[eaglerugby04]

What the holy mother of god is that Mongolian clusterfuck???

Seriously...For the first time ever on a truck I have no idea WTF I’m looking at...

I agree I am more confused after looking at that, lol.

Does anybody have any links to affordable interrupter switches?

 

[Harold0819]

What the holy mother of god is that Mongolian clusterfuck???

Seriously...For the first time ever on a truck I have no idea WTF I’m looking at...

It is a dual battery kit from Genesis offroad. There are a lot of wires but most aren't used for my application. A lot of them are used for a monitoing system you can mount in the cab but I didn't opt for that.

 

[Factoid]

Here you go. $30 in parts. You will need:
1 - generic Ford starter relay
2 - battery cable lugs (connects to the two large terminals on the relay)
Heat shrink tubing (seals and insulates the large relay connections)
14ga wire (length from Aux 3/4 wire next to the battery or to dash if separate switch) blue in diagram

Remove the negative battery connection, then the positive at the battery.

Mount the relay as close to the battery as possible (note which of the large terminals is for battery and which is for starter (winch)). Measure the length of cable require to reach from the large battery terminal on the relay to the battery. Ensure you consider safe routing and protection of this cable as it will be hot all the time. Cut this length from the red (positive) cable that runs from the winch to the positive battery terminal, measuring from the battery connection terminal end. Slide a 1 1/2” piece of heat shrink tubing over the cut end, properly attach one of the two lugs to the end and shrink the tubing to protect and insulate the lug connection (ensure the tubing does not cover the hole in the lug). Attach the lug to the large battery stud on the relay and then to the battery positive terminal (use the positive battery terminal mounting method provided with your winch).

Measure the remaining positive cable from the winch to the other large terminal on the relay, ensuring you route it safely through the engine compartment, avoiding sharp edges and objects and insulating, protecting the cable as required (this cable will only be hot when the Aux or separate switch is activated). Attach the other lug with heat shrink as described above and firmly connect it to the relay.

If you have the Aux switches, use either 3 or 4, the lug/heat shrink kit in the glove box and a length of 14ga wire to connect the small “S” terminal on the relay to the orange/pink (Aux 3) or dark blue/pink (Aux 4) wire next to the battery. If you don’t have Aux switches, you will need to mount a 15a minimum switch in the cabin with a fused B+ on one side and the small relay terminal on the other (if you use a lighted switch which I recommend so you know when it is on, run the third switch terminal to ground).

Attach the negative winch cable to the battery negative cable terminal and reattach the negative terminal.

See the rough schematic below. You are done, so enjoy!

 

[Factoid]

Practice social distancing and order online!

I like Summit Racing, but pick your poison. Here are some options:

https://www.summitracing.com/search...versal:yes&SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending

One thing to consider. These relays are actually solenoids, meaning that an iron core is surrounded by the coil. The core is pulled down making the contact between the two large terminals and a spring pulls it back into position when deenergized (a relay coil doesn’t have the iron core and simply pulls the contacts closed). The duty cycle on a solenoid is robust, but for longest life, rest the solenoid on the same rest cycle you use for your winch. Meaning turn the switch off when you rest the winch.

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