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where are you powering the winch?

WILDHOBO

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Sorry it took me so long to get this for you. The Solenoid is 4" long from end of stud to end of solenoid and 2 5/8" square, The studs are approx. 3/8" diameter or 10mm diameter and roughly 1 1/2" apart.
I can’t imagine the Warn solenoid failing from use. If mine hasn’t failed, I’m guessing few will. I’ve put mine through the paces with long repetitive pulls. I was the winch for 6 jeeps at a single obstacle last spring. It was near constant winching for more than 30 minutes. Zero issues.
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cranbiz

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I can’t imagine the Warn solenoid failing from use. If mine hasn’t failed, I’m guessing few will. I’ve put mine through the paces with long repetitive pulls. I was the winch for 6 jeeps at a single obstacle last spring. It was near constant winching for more than 30 minutes. Zero issues.
I expect the Warn is a quality product and I would not be expecting it to fail either. However, it is an electrical device with windings and physical contacts and in this imperfect world, could fail.

I'm just supplying the info @ShadowsPapa asked for (while ago, which I'm sorry that this was not timelier).
 

WILDHOBO

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I expect the Warn is a quality product and I would not be expecting it to fail either. However, it is an electrical device with windings and physical contacts and in this imperfect world, could fail.

I'm just supplying the info @ShadowsPapa asked for (while ago, which I'm sorry that this was not timelier).
I wasn’t knocking yours. I agree. They can all fail equally.
 

ShadowsPapa

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I expect the Warn is a quality product and I would not be expecting it to fail either. However, it is an electrical device with windings and physical contacts and in this imperfect world, could fail.

I'm just supplying the info @ShadowsPapa asked for (while ago, which I'm sorry that this was not timelier).
Any electro-mechanical device can fail. The risk may be small for a quality part, but not 0.
My thing is that I always like to see options and ways and other devices - just in case.
My use, especially, the winch, solenoid, heck, the whole truck, may well outlive me!
 

ShadowsPapa

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Sorry it took me so long to get this for you. The Solenoid is 4" long from end of stud to end of solenoid and 2 5/8" square, The studs are approx. 3/8" diameter or 10mm diameter and roughly 1 1/2" apart.
Thanks for that - got it recorded in my notes of Jeep stuff........
 

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GWolgamott

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Is there any reason to not run the switch from a relay for some trail lights and for the switch from a warn power interrupter to something like the JL400 voswitch? I don't have the aux switches, so just to have everything nice and neat. Thinking of doing that type setup and I think that allows the extra insurance of that switch panel being run to a fuse. Or is that bank too under powered for the power needed for the warn solenoid kit? Something else that work better for that?
 

KevinM60

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Is there any reason to not run the switch from a relay for some trail lights and for the switch from a warn power interrupter to something like the JL400 voswitch? I don't have the aux switches, so just to have everything nice and neat. Thinking of doing that type setup and I think that allows the extra insurance of that switch panel being run to a fuse. Or is that bank too under powered for the power needed for the warn solenoid kit? Something else that work better for that?
The solenoid itself is low amperage. It's the power running through the gate from the battery through the solenoid and to the winch that has the high amperage. That's why we like to keep that shut off when not in use.
The Voswitch works just like the factory aux panel but you have to install it yourself.
 

GWolgamott

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The solenoid itself is low amperage. It's the power running through the gate from the battery through the solenoid and to the winch that has the high amperage. That's why we like to keep that shut off when not in use.
The Voswitch works just like the factory aux panel but you have to install it yourself.
Gotcha, that was what I was thinking. Wasn't quite sure. Thanks!
 

ShadowsPapa

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The solenoid itself is low amperage. It's the power running through the gate from the battery through the solenoid and to the winch that has the high amperage. That's why we like to keep that shut off when not in use.
The Voswitch works just like the factory aux panel but you have to install it yourself.
Well said.

The Warn solenoid in mine is handled by an aux switch (factory) and the 10 amp one at that. I could probably cut that fuse down in half and be more than fine, but the wiring more than supports the 10 amps so I left it alone.
I believe the Warn solenoid coil draws 3.5 amps.
 

WILDHOBO

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Gotcha, that was what I was thinking. Wasn't quite sure. Thanks!
@KevinM60 could not be more correct. The switch you hookup to the solenoid is just the on switch. It doesn’t not in any way take on the amperage of the winch itself. And I love my VL400. Enjoy. :)
 

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GWolgamott

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So... along these same lines I may end up with a couple extra switches. So opinion on using a voswitch type setup as an in-between, but use on a quick connect or sae connector?

Would be to use something like on of those gator clamp air compressors or something. Not that it is needed, but if have an extra switch or two available... why not I guess is my question and maybe there is a good reason as to "why not"?

*edit: Note that I would of course convert the gator clamp end to a quick connect ;)
 

WestwallNF104A

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So... along these same lines I may end up with a couple extra switches. So opinion on using a voswitch type setup as an in-between, but use on a quick connect or sae connector?

Would be to use something like on of those gator clamp air compressors or something. Not that it is needed, but if have an extra switch or two available... why not I guess is my question and maybe there is a good reason as to "why not"?

*edit: Note that I would of course convert the gator clamp end to a quick connect ;)
I just wired my Warn right to the battery, and it doesn't turn on till I plug in the controller.

I didn't think I needed to add a switch in between. Just something else to break!
 

Lost1wing

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I just wired my Warn right to the battery, and it doesn't turn on till I plug in the controller.

I didn't think I needed to add a switch in between. Just something else to break!
The reason for a disconnect is to eliminate the portable welding cable commonly used to power the winch. As long as you know what could happen.
 

ShadowsPapa

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I just wired my Warn right to the battery, and it doesn't turn on till I plug in the controller.

I didn't think I needed to add a switch in between. Just something else to break!
No disconnect = something else to go wrong when someone blows a light and smacks the front of your Jeep sending full battery current through the cables to ground via pinched cables, resulting in fire..........

Apparently didn't read all of the posts and all of the other threads on same topic.
I guess as long as one understands the risks and how fires can be lift-threatening (not to mention expensive for the first responder services)
 

WestwallNF104A

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No disconnect = something else to go wrong when someone blows a light and smacks the front of your Jeep sending full battery current through the cables to ground via pinched cables, resulting in fire..........

Apparently didn't read all of the posts and all of the other threads on same topic.
I guess as long as one understands the risks and how fires can be lift-threatening (not to mention expensive for the first responder services)
I read the thread. There are MULTIPLE avenues for fire. I used to be a first responder, and pulled far too many folks out of burnt up wrecks.

None had winches, and they still torched. EV's are far more dangerous to first responders and no one pays them any mind at all.

I weighed the risks, and they are small.
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