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Winch install without wire box

jrf

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Never been a huge fan of the solenoid or now albright contactor box sitting on top of the winch. The old box got hidden in my TJ and I knew I wanted to do the same for the Gladiator. Just finished it all up.

Mounted the albright pack on the 2nd battery box. It drops down from underneath with 3 bolts. Pulled away in the inner fender liner to get to that spot. Made it pretty easy. Got some longer battery cables to go up to the winch and put split loom to make it all look factory. After I got the winch and bumper back in realized with a little modification I could actually get the top plate bolted back in with a little bit of modification. So that will be going back in once I get it notched out for the clutch handle. I'm not happy with the look of the fairlead so that will get changed along with that hook on the end of the cable. Also was able to easily cut the plastic frame cover. Realized after I could have cut less...so if anyone has one of those plastic frame covers they aren't used I'm interested.

Wired AUX1 switch to provide power to remote and wireless module along with two extra relays. Also wired AUX3 and 4 for IN and OUT but ONLY if Aux 1 is on. So I have inside control and wireless remote control. The inside control was probably a bit over the top but I wasn't using them for anything right now anyways. I wanted the extra step of AUX1 being on in case someone decided to start pushing buttons on the dash.

winch1.jpg
winch2.jpg
winch3.jpg


Finally got the factory cover plate cut out. Not exactly what I wanted. Would have loved a taller clutch handle for the winch..but It's the best I can get.

bumperplate1.jpg


bumperplate2.jpg
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HTXGladiator

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That's a clean setup, man. And a nice write up. I agree, probably a little over the top using up 3 Aux switches...lol.
 

Bobzdar

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Nice - really clean!

I plan to wire the aux switches for the same functionality, but as I don't have a wireless controller I'll use aux1 or aux2 to ground the control box and aux3/4 for in and out (I have no plans to do anything else with them). One of the reasons I went with the superwinch was for the low mount control box so it wouldn't be as exposed, but yours is much cleaner. I had thought about remote mount but want to keep the ability to easily run the wired controller.

20190519_175341.jpg
 
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jrf

jrf

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probably a little over the top using up 3 Aux switches...lol.
Agreed. :) But they weren't doing anything else....and I was already into the wire pack under the hood and...and....
 
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jrf

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keep the ability to easily run the wired controller.
For now I left the wired controller plug under the hood by the battery. Not ideal...but I also have wireless. Those are VERY easy to extend with 3-5 wires depending on switch. In the TJ I mounted it inside the cab on the center console. So still very easy to get to.
 

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LongTimeListener

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Nice - really clean!

I plan to wire the aux switches for the same functionality, but as I don't have a wireless controller I'll use aux1 or aux2 to ground the control box and aux3/4 for in and out (I have no plans to do anything else with them). One of the reasons I went with the superwinch was for the low mount control box so it wouldn't be as exposed, but yours is much cleaner. I had thought about remote mount but want to keep the ability to easily run the wired controller.

20190519_175341.jpg
Looking at your picture, I'm so glad Arizona doesn't make us run front tags. Nice install.
 

Sal

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what model di
Never been a huge fan of the solenoid or now albright contactor box sitting on top of the winch. The old box got hidden in my TJ and I knew I wanted to do the same for the Gladiator. Just finished it all up.

Mounted the albright pack on the 2nd battery box. It drops down from underneath with 3 bolts. Pulled away in the inner fender liner to get to that spot. Made it pretty easy. Got some longer battery cables to go up to the winch and put split loom to make it all look factory. After I got the winch and bumper back in realized with a little modification I could actually get the top plate bolted back in with a little bit of modification. So that will be going back in once I get it notched out for the clutch handle. I'm not happy with the look of the fairlead so that will get changed along with that hook on the end of the cable. Also was able to easily cut the plastic frame cover. Realized after I could have cut less...so if anyone has one of those plastic frame covers they aren't used I'm interested.

Wired AUX1 switch to provide power to remote and wireless module along with two extra relays. Also wired AUX3 and 4 for IN and OUT but ONLY if Aux 1 is on. So I have inside control and wireless remote control. The inside control was probably a bit over the top but I wasn't using them for anything right now anyways. I wanted the extra step of AUX1 being on in case someone decided to start pushing buttons on the dash.

winch1.jpg
winch2.jpg
winch3.jpg
which model model did you go with?
 
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jrf

jrf

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Smittybilt X20 10s
 
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jrf

jrf

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synthetic. I should have updated photos of the stock spacer part clearanced for the winch handle in a few weeks.
 

Oscar Indy

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I do this with all my winches. Much prefer the Underhood box. I generally run incab controls too. No plugging in a controller and no box obstructing the drum.
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