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kevman65
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Open your hood, look to your right just above radiator. There are two "buttons" (plunger switches) if both of them are all the way up, it's not a problem.
If one of them is down while the other is up, there's your problem.
Spray WD40 or electric contact cleaner on them and exercise them. More than likely they are dirty.
IF one of them has failed, do the repair yourself, screw the dealer.
If one of them is down while the other is up, there's your problem.
Spray WD40 or electric contact cleaner on them and exercise them. More than likely they are dirty.
IF one of them has failed, do the repair yourself, screw the dealer.
imallcrawl
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I think you can try and disable the auto start/stop, its pretty easy to do but I am not sure if this is what you are looking for:
ShadowsPapa
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Yes, it does. The hood switch can cause issues, and the aux battery can as well.
May not have been cheep but I see nothing indicating they were blowing smoke
Not what he wanted to do - wanted to make sure that the dealer wasn't just tossing a part in that it didn't need. He may not know that the hood switches can be and cause problems of various types.
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MarkO
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It’s a dealer. It probably doesn’t. What were the symptoms you were looking to fix? Edit: start stop. Battery prob wasn’t charged fully when installed. Drive around for a bit.
Minty JL
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Hopefully it was all under warranty
ShadowsPapa
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Have you seen the dealer processes for battery replacement?
It includes charging battery and resetting the IBS.
So if they followed their own processes, it was.
The fact that the switch was replaced and it worked pretty much settles it.
(Driving around for a bit won't really do what's needed. He'd have to drive for hours depending on how low it was. )
What the dealer did actually makes a lot of sense.
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When the plunger switch is disabled and the small dash error light remains on, are there any other effects besides logging the switch state? Which must happen normally when performing work with the hood up, so the engine will keep running.
And when the switch is reconnected, does this automatically clear the previous state of this switch position? Or does the log retain a record of all of the switch deactivation events, that a dealer can still see? With time stamps that for hours of driving might be apparent vs short term, hood up engine running events?
Gene
And when the switch is reconnected, does this automatically clear the previous state of this switch position? Or does the log retain a record of all of the switch deactivation events, that a dealer can still see? With time stamps that for hours of driving might be apparent vs short term, hood up engine running events?
Gene
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BigAls Willys
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Just checked both my Jeeps. Seems the "plunger" was sticking when in the down position, so thanks for the heads up. Will WD-40 do anything to the electronics or is there an alternative to effectively allow the plungers to perform as designed w/out messing with the electronics?
kevman65
Well-Known Member
WD40 has been used, electrical contact cleaner has been used.
Basically crap (grit, dirt, sand, dead bug body parts) gets in where the plunger goes up and down and cause the plunger to stick. I do NOT know if any of it makes it to the contacts or not.
But most people that have a problem get the plunger to move freely again and their problems disappear.
If after cleaning and getting it to move freely and you still have issues, then you probably need a new part(s).
ShadowsPapa
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I've use WD40 to dry out distributor caps, antique engine magnetos and other similar systems after the engine have sat out in a heavy rain storm.
It's "water displacement" formula 40 is what it stands for.
I've pulled distributor caps and shot it all over the inside of the cap and distributor with no ill effect.
Your hood switches are simply switches, on/off, nothing more to them.
It's very unlikely to have any ill effect at all.
