price bump $2200
Alu Cab Explorer Canopy in excellent condition. Includes top rails and I have the factory bed rails that are needed to attach, can be picked up in 73070, OK. I can arrange delivery on your dime.
anyone interested in a pair of King 2.5 Performance Series front shocks with adjusters have about 5k miles on them. asking $800 shipped can be picked up in 73019 OK,
In case anyone is interested, I have the Banks Power EcoDiesel Derringer System with iDash DataMonster and PedalMonster. for sale Looking to get $600 shipped for them. Located in OK.
Dana 44 axles pulled from a 2022 Gladiator Rubicon. This is the complete Rubicon axle assemblies including the driveshafts. 5.13 gearing They have 11k miles on them and were removed after upgrading to UD60s. Asking $4,000. Located in 74339, OK for pickup. I can arrange shipping at the buyer’s...
reposting this here incase anyone is interested posted this in the JL forum yesterday.
I’ve got a set of 2022 XR wheels and tires for sale with about 4k miles on them. They’re in excellent condition with no damage.
K02 315/70R17 tires on XR beadlock wheels, including TPMS sensors and original...
On a 2021 the stock headlight mounts use the factory bolts, and from people pulling them to swap lights they’re 8mm bolts to remove the lights from the grille/frame.
So your stock bolts are likely 8 mm, and you’ll want longer 8 mm fasteners that match that thread to secure your Sunpie LEDs...
If you’re going to Silver Lake and they recommend 12–15 psi, that’s a safe starting point. On sand you don’t usually need to go crazy low anyway.
With beadgrips you’ve got more margin than a standard wheel, so 10–12 psi is pretty common without issues. Some people go single digits, but that’s...
Before you replace the camera I’d check the tailgate harness and connections. The wiring where it passes into the tailgate is a common failure point and can act exactly like that, works one day then nothing.
Camera swap itself isn’t terrible if you’re comfortable pulling the tailgate panel, but...
I’d skip the cheap bar antennas and go Firestik or Tram for more consistent GMRS performance. Lower gain for mountains, higher for flats is a good plan. Big5 Overland stuff is okay for the price but not as solid as Firestik/Tram.
I’ve run 3.73 and 4.10 and 4.10 definitely feels better off the line and less strained. Not a massive difference, but noticeable.
At 6k you’re basically maxed out. For short ramp trips you could regear to 4.56 and it’ll feel way better than 4.10. If you plan to tow it a lot, though, a half ton...
I’ve seen this a few times. Cold start rough idle that clears after a restart usually points to a sensor or fueling issue, not plugs. Manifold removal for plugs is a pain but at your mileage they usually don’t cause this. I’d lean MAP/MAT wiring, coolant temp sensor, or a bad software cold-start...
There’s a big factory grommet on the driver side firewall behind the brake booster that works well. You can poke through it and seal it back up with silicone. Some people also use the hood latch grommet if you want an easier path. Just keep the wire away from the steering shaft and exhaust.
You can’t really disable that warning without hacking the CAN system, and that’s way more trouble than it’s worth. The message is coming from the PCM/TCM logic that was changed with the clutch recall, so it’s almost certainly software or a sensor input like the clutch position switch. A reflash...
Sounds like you’ve been dealing with a frustrating issue, especially when the dealership is pointing the finger at the aftermarket wheels and tires. Since they’ve replaced the sensors and module, it could be something else in the system, like an issue with the wiring, antenna, or a signal...