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Fair enough I'll probably stick to 37s then.

Aren't they amazing compared to stock?? One of the best things I did to the truck for next to nothing.

I don't believe the icon lift to be only 2.5 inches which is part of what has me considering 38s. It sits noticably higher than my 2.5 level did and in a trail recon video they measured the front lift at 3.4 inches on a rubi jl. The rear is obviously a different story but the front springs and...

I have 2 piece sport fenders that I'm planning to chop whether I move up to 37s or 38s. Also on 4.75 BS so hoping my max tow axles can fit a 13.50 with that backspacing. Currently I have a 1 inch puck in the front and metalcloak jounces front and rear. So effectively 2 inches up front and 1 in...

Yes obviously, but there are posts on the jl forums and here that say 2.5 isn't enough for more than 37s. I'm curious if anyone's running a similar set up and how much that extra inch will effect the overall picture in a 2.5 lift specifically.

I have an icon lift with 35s and I should have listened and skipped 35s. My question is how much articulation I'd realistically give up with 3 inches of bumpstop for 38s? Currently running 2 inches bump stop up front and an inch in the rear.

Where I live in so cal I'm getting 12.5 during the summer and about 13.5 now that I'm not blasting the ac all the time. However my last trip to Tucson and sedona I was getting 16-18 on the roads in that area. Both predominantly in town driving figures. Just goes to show how volatile fuel economy...

Ok thanks for the info. Would an dealership update reset the change made by the j scan or does it make permanent changes?

I'm speaking on the computer thinking I still have 4.10 when I unmarry. Tire size I don't care I just unmarry and drop it off. My question is if anything can be damaged in the diff if the computer thinks you're on 4.10 but the reality is you've regeared to 5.13?

Yeah most likely but I have a tick. Dealership said "wow that sounds like an exhaust leak." Then proceeded to return the truck as "nothing wrong, you have a warranty, drive it until it blows." So I don't know how much I want to push my warranty luck.

See that's my concern because if you don't unmarry you risk losing whatever flash they did correct? And if you unmarry you risk damage? Anyone know what the deepest gear set a dealership can flash is?

So no damage to the diff from the computer thinking you were on stock gears? Reason I ask is I could swear I saw a post claiming their diffs blew in that exact scenario. Did you unmarry or simply remove?

Can anyone recommend san diego shops for a regear? Any recent quotes in the area?

Not to thread jack but I'm also planning on 5.13 soon. What happens if the truck was to be driven but my tazer has been un married(like a warranty service scenario)?

With a friend I've done mine twice over in the driveway. The rear springs were a bitch the second time but for a one day affair I'll gladly save the money.

Also consider the fact that if you do indeed decide to buy a Mojave and modify the suspension later, you might have less options than every other trim as it requires parts unique to a Mojave.

If you're only trying to tow and haul I'd go max tow. Only go mojave if you know you absolutely aren't going to touch the wheels and suspension EVER. I have a max tow with "incomplete" icon stage 2 and 35 mts and its comfy as all shit imo. Even on 14 hour drives. Moral of the story though, I...

You will be ok with a huge grin on your face at that. Even on moderate trails. You'll be surprised what she's capable of. Don't sweat lockers until you're lifting tires. Get quality suspension and tires before even thinking about lockers.

What's the advantage over a 20 dollar set of lower correction pads though?

All 4 wheels and tires officially sold. $400.