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Well, swapped to a Toyota engine. It’s attached to a Toyota Tacoma. Jeep was running good after cam change but just cant trust that engine. Shame as I liked it otherwise.

I would stick with the 3.6 if it was reliable, but it’s not. I wish it was the straight six. I don’t think dropping 6 grand on a new 3.6 solves anything. As people with 2025 engines still have Cam plus issues. Problem is the Canbus for any other solution. The chassis has to talk to the engine...

Airbus manuals suck, MD, Bell and Sikorsky manuals are WAY better and more descriptive. But that’s got nothing to do with locking down my vehicle. Especially when they make an engine (3.6) that is 50-50 on reliability. I’d sooner drive a 70s Maverick.

So, I’ve been motoring the engine before starting it the first time of the day and haven’t had a light. Still hear a tapping occasionally when it’s first started. So, I’m living with it till it explodes or I figure out an affordable alternative that could pass emissions.

To me, having to do it every time is illogical. This is a feature I didn’t want nor need in the first place. Wearing out the starter makes no sense either. So I pulled 42 and added inline interrupt as well. And yes I still use a button to start.

The carpet snaps in, you can pull it if you’re gonna get dirty. That leaves the rubber mat underneath.

Man, that sucks. Good luck with JC. Maybe they’ll help. I dont know if it’s a head or just a gasket on mine but I just got it going again with a new cam so I’m gonna stick with motoring before starting. I’m still considering a different engine option.

I won a set over Christmas. They seem to hold up. Also has a carpet insert you can take out if you gonna be in the mud.

Well good luck. I suspect my issue may have something to do with a head gasket but I have to check compression, driver side is a pain.

You can try holding down brake pedal and gas pedal at the same time and press the start button. It will motor without starting. press start button to stop it turning over then start normally. So far, that’s been working for me. Not sure if it’s oil pressure or what but I don’t get the misfire...

As stated, here they are in the truck. Bed needs to relax a bit but not a bad fit. Cab mats fit well and better than jeep mats which aren’t bad.

I appreciate what you are saying but it’s about reliability, not horsepower. If your lucky, your PUG might last over 100k before it eats a cam, rockers etc. Some get 200k in a minivan. Mine was 70k and is acting up again. Your results may very.

Basically I want something reliable that I can drive, not just stare at in the driveway. There was a time where the V8 bell housing was the same as a six so a swap was straight forward. Those days are gone. Right now I’m looking for a vehicle I can part out to include a wiring harness and...

Thanks, they look really nice. I’ll post another picture when they are in the truck.

Woohoo! Got them in the mail today!

Trade? Good luck with that. I get what you are saying, and will probably have to go that route. I’ve completely swapped dashes and wiring before, just wish I didn’t have to…….

Any good sources covering the Can Bus on these things?

RPM has an interface I just don’t know if the have one for JL/JT. I have a feeling I’m going to have to figure it out.

The reason I ask is I see Bruiser who has expensive swaps for the bigger current chevys but I don’t see where they sell a harness. Novak offers mod of stock 5.3 harness to work with JK and so does RPM Extreme. Nothing for JL or JT. Sorry but the VVL is a boat anchor so I’m not paying for...

If you run a parallel computer and wiring system for the 5.3, and trans, will the other body systems function with the Jeep computer?