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You deleted the funny part, haha I doubt any carbon bits are going to be offended.

Let's break it down. I said: Carbon bits are not the best choice You said: Carbon bits are fine, go slow I said: Yes they will work but be careful You said: You are a jerk for saying carbon bits want work I now say get a fucking life.

Done here

Why the hostility? I doubt any carbon bits are going to be offended.

Go for it my friend.

I don't doubt it is possible. If you get half way through and the bit wanders a little bit it WILL break. If you are drilling by hand tools. Trust me it happp Good for you ; ) Going slow and all that is key, as I thought I was doing, but once you get 1/2 in in and deviate even slightly the...

The carbon ones wont do the job. They will snap and piss you off, get cobalt or ??

I ran my XJ for 25 years and had very few problems ever. Solid vehicle. I think the JT will be the same.

Leave the doors off ;)

Did anyone spend a weekend reading the whole thing, I doubt it, but my man we love our Jeeps! I'm not a fan of lights though, seems a little too much.

I like the RR Arcus ALOT and would go that route if I had to choose again, but I went with the Mopar stubby. Very happy with it. It works well with the winch mount and it's stamped steel. And yes, it's my back yard ;)

Back up the ramp

More info please

No

I can't say for certain, I had a shop do the lift.

6.8 is kind of high, IIRC spec is 4* - 5.5* I'm running Clayton 2.5" and last alignment set it to 5.8* from 6.8*, and it drives a little better.

It was easier and cheaper to get a new shaft with bearing and seal pre-pressed on.

My dealer said it voided it, but YMMV.

I started a thread about what I found when I replaced mine a little while ago. If you decide to fix it yourself instead of waiting on the dealer again, (and likely having same issue again) check the sealing surface and opening...

Don't know what the interior is like in the PW. I think it could be the deciding factor.