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21 gallons is the most I've put in, I hit range low and went 10 more miles which in our area is almoar a gallon. If I put it in when the light first turns on I get about 18.5 gallons We have run the 4xe out of gas 3 times, the gas runs out before the electronic gauge hits the actual empty line...

In Minnesota driving trucks all I did was add some sand bags to the bed and it did just fine in 2h and when needed I'd throw it in 4h on the fly. Sure 4auto would be nice then but it wasn't really a big deal to me.

The non-4h auto tcase can take the power, but the v8s are known to burn up the clutch models, especially if you use 4h auto a lot on loose surfaces.

Rock trac just means the 4:1 and stronger T-case of the Rubicon, there is rock trac part time and full time. Everyone else gets the 2.72 t case and select trac or command trac. Just check the shifter as shown above and that will make sure you get it. Once you have it remember that if you are...

I'd try some yellow stuff pads or the power stop pads first, if that doesn't work check out the teraflex Delta big brake kit, they use tundra brake pads and are well reviewed. Towing a 5k pound trailer if your brakes are giving you problems I'd be looking for better trailer brakes too.

There is no steering assist in these. The dealership isn't wrong there really isnt anything that can lock these up as they're just power assisted gear boxes.. The above suggestion of the turn signal is the most probable short of something jamming your pitman arm or a break inside the box itself...

Valve cover gaskets also go on these some times. Check the corners behind the fenders that's the usual drip spot, also can check your pcv which is on the passenger side. Both of those make a lot of burning smell as they drip right on the exhaust

Cross shop them against store.mopar.com some times I get great prices off them and can pick them up right at the local dealer for 5 bucks

Rock auto is probably the best bet, melling makes the best rockers (and I believe makes them for OEM as well). I'll be doing rockers and lifters in my 2012 jku soon.

They're basically clevite joints with a free rotating metal sleeve to help remove the bind found in stock control arms. Just like clevite bushings if you flex a lot the joints will wear and crack. Age also plays a role but 3 years seems short to me.

It could be rockers and lifters, but the updated design of the pug has been having cam quality issues more than just rocker and lifter so you may want to have cams for bank 2 ready. Id probably try the spark plugs first and maybe it's just a bad plug?

It will be slightly stiffer than the Mojave bar but probably not enough for you to notice other than maybe slightly less body roll

Which Amazon one did you order? This looks to be decent quality

Following this, would like one for the jk if they're decent

Ha I was literally just wondering how you were doing like 30 min ago. Glad to see you still lurking around

Check jscan

The front fenders are already fully ppf'd if they are painted unless it's changed but this was the case in 21 and 22. The rears have the little patches of ppf.

Most people don't change to a free rotating control arms or loosen the stock control arms so they end up binding and not letting it really droop I've found.

Splined sockets are thin wall and the nuts are thinner so you can use aftermarket wheels with less back spacing and smaller pockets. I actually love the splined nuts, easy to get on and off and stay looking good longer, just need to make sure you have the key Gorilla lug nut keys? I've...