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Built a top rack for my RSI cap. Crossbars are 1x2 extruded aluminum and side bars are 1/4" x 2" aluminum bar. I cut the slots on my router table with a 1/4" spiral upcut bit in small depth increments until the holes were through.

Built a top rack for my RSI cap. Crossbars are 1x2 extruded aluminum and side bars are 1/4" x 2" aluminum bar. I cut the slots on my router table with a 1/4" spiral upcut bit in small depth increments until the holes were through.

Built some drawers for the bed: https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/diy-drawers.41147/

I can see the same on mine at the clamp points. To my eye it just looks like the plastic caps on top of the bed sides is deflecting under the clamp. The plastic caps are not solid and you can do the same thing with just finger pressure on the tailgate cap.

I did something along these lines: https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/no-bed-power-no-problem-9-99-do-it-yourself.27894/

Well, we have two seasons down here in South Texas: Summer and Not Summer. Two weeks ago it was 18 out. This weekend 80s. I guess Summer is here.

It’s all 1” 10 series.

Front to back bars are 56" x 6. Lateral bars are 40" x 4. Vertical bars are 8" x 15. That makes the entire frame with corner connections 58" long, 42" wide, and 10" tall.

To be honest, I was mostly joking about standing in the drawers. I think the 200lb slides should be more than enough for my needs. As for weight, I forgot to weigh everything before putting it back in. Next time it’s out I’ll weigh the parts. If I had to guess, I’d say 100 lbs give or take 20.

I need to do an exact tally but approximately: Space frame parts: $350 Plywood: $200 Bedliner $70 Polymat Felt: $30 Paddle Latches: $50 L-Track: $165 Glue/Screws/Misc: $75 Total: $910

Built some drawers to go under the cap. https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/diy-drawers.41147/

Finished my DIY drawer project. Details here : https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/diy-drawers.41147/

After getting my RSI Smartcap installed I decided to go the route of building some drawers for the bed. There were several factors driving the decision to build my own versus purchasing something off the shelf. One, I like to do stuff myself :rock:. Two, I wanted to be able to easily remove the...

Yes, it's about 1/2" higher than the channels. I have about 8" to spare on top of the cap to still fit in my garage. Several RTTs are in the 6-7" range leaving a very fine margin for load bars etc. I'm toying with ideas using extruded aluminum in the 3/4-1" range that might work directly affixed...

Question for RSI: I'm looking at options to mount a very low profile rooftop tent. Is there any reason why an aluminum base tent can't be semi-permanently mounted directly to the roof channels on the Smartcap? In other words, are load bars a necessity? It seems that if one can find a solution...

Couldn't be happier. :rock:

Mine is showing up today! My retailer gave me a call and said to refuse the shipment if there is any apparent damage. For those of you who had damage, I'm assuming it was clearly visible when the shipment arrived and not a surprise once unpacked?

FWIW, there were zero problems when I installed the AUX switches and used my Tazer JL Mini to activate them.

Thank you.

I have a Smartcap on order and would like to do the BuiltRight panels as well. My concern is the cap clamps interfering with the panel mounting points in the rail. I take it you don’t see an interference issue?