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That sounds like leaking turbo, internally. Do these have a PCV? Could also be excessive oil return as well.

Excuse the redundancy but, when checking ur oil, do u clean the tip first then reinsert to get an accurate reading?

Oil still look clean? Or starting to black out? Aux filter look ok?

If in park (auto) or neutral (manual) - A "tiny" bit of movement, as in a slight jerk, can be expected, especially on incline/decline. But if it rolls any, then p brake adjustment will be necessary, or shoes checked pending on mileage or offroad use. If you have an auto, tho, parking brake is...

Are we still waiting for my24 for new hurricane motor and/or 4xe and/or mid-cycle refresh?

Sound like the gear change put it back to its "normal" efficiency range

My bad, I meant radiator, not intercooler. Corrected my previous post.

Not bashing... but this was quite painful to read and understand with the single run on sentence. But I too have my gas jt in a craptastic dealer. Feel ur pain, and glad u got ur jeep back, despite the circumstances.

But if the "upgraded" radiator provides lower, or more efficient cooling than OE, then it stands to reason that the oil will cool a little more effectively. How much remains to be seen/experimented.

How's the noise/vibration with their control arm flex joints? I'm a bit skeptical of such bushings, but their kit is the cheapest available and I kno another person that's had nothing but good to say about them. Does this kit also level the truck, or is there some rake retained?

Shocked at ur luck in FL. But Vero does have a bit of retirees, and in FL, they suck in general. Gulf coast definitely has a better attitude Jeep wave-wise. But I agree about the denser populated areas not waving as often. I'm in Palm Bay, FL.

To have that many dtc, it's definitely a loose/bad connection somewhere, or short to ground. I had a similar instance after going a lil to deep too many times. Had a wet connector that wouldn't let me start vehicle. 1 week later after drying out, I was good, cleared codes, and drove fine... till...

U think jscan can see it? Does it keep marking it everytime u start motor and drive? Curious

Called insurance to kindly reopen flood claim to now cover transmission, not 500 miles after new motor... in a 13k mile jt. Needless to say, I think I've found every one of her weaknesses. Now I kno what to do on the next one after swapping parts.

U get what u pay for... so I need to spend $600+ for tail lights for them to be quality? Sorry, I don't buy it. I'll wait for the ebay/Amazon knock offs, buy a small pack of jb weld, and still pay less. At least half the aftermarket products on my jeep are knockoffs with no issues after 1.5 yrs...

in the motor, partially my fault, partially manufacturer (leaking rear main). Got stuck in some nasty clay/mud/sand mix, but motor and breathers werent submerged. As for tranny, im very skeptical. Ive heard of the casting process theory, but the way they described it sounded like I sank in the...

In my case, new motor at 13k due to sand, alot of it. Still don't know how. Drove OK for 350 miles and then would shift out of park. After 1.5 weeks going back n forth with jeep engineers, they said new valve body. When they removed pan, SAND! HOW THE HELL I GET SAND BUT NO WATER IN TRANNY?! Now...

That's why I jotted my personal experience for him. Streetable no problem, just don't articulate. 3.5" lift is highly recommended for a sport with 37s though. 2.5" with high clearance fenders.

I had sport fenders on my sport max tow, still able to drive around town till I put lift on 2 weeks later. With higher clearance fenders it should be like adding up to 1" lift up front. Here's my current setup on 3.5 rc spacer lift and 37s. New bumper and winch added a lil more weight to front.

This happened to me when I was off reading. If it was immediately after playing in water/mud, it water in a connector. Took me a week to let dry with battery disconnected. The cleared codes with jscan and I was peachy.