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I keep a battery tender (NOCO Genius 10) and I have a Tazer installed without issue.

I also just mounted the HF 6” RS Edge lights. I chose a more outboard location and mounted using the hole where the stubby part of the bumper joins the end caps. So far I’m happy with the look and utility of it.

Most of these things have been mentioned, but here is what I did when I did my Clayton 2.5 OL+: 1. MetalCloak rear sway bar reinforcement brackets. 2. RockJock carrier bearing spacer. 3. RockHard 4x4 LCA and lower shock mount skids. 4. Clayton FAD skid (I had to grind some of the RH LCA...

I don’t think the Tazer will let you get around this either, but the Tazer does use the cruise control buttons (Resume, Set +/-) as programmable shortcut buttons, so if the memory of prior CC status stayed engaged that would make using the the shortcuts difficult (ie the programmed shortcuts...

I’m running Spidertrax 5 on 5, 1.75” for about a year with no issues but looks like they are currently out of stock. Synergy would be my second choice. You want to make sure whatever you run is wheel and hub centric.

Yea I definitely had my share of cuts, scrapes and a gnarly bruise on my left forearm for 2 weeks (not exactly sure what I did to cause that!). My steering wheel was definitely way off but a quick drag link adjustment fixed that. My toe did not appreciable change though. 190 ft/lbs was a...

I did the 2.5” OL+ with Falcon shocks by myself in my driveway on jacks and stands a couple months back and it took me about 14 hours total spread out over the weekend (not counting time I spent to pre-adjust everything). This was my first lift install and so that may have added to my time...

I carry a Craftsman socket set in a soft carry case I picked up at Lowe’s (I liked that it had some of the bigger socket sizes needed to do some of the work on the jeep) and I also keep a pouch of deep sockets - 22mm needed for the lugs and an Icon metric set from Harbor Freight. Aside from that...

I’ll take them if still available. Sending you an email.

Interested. PM Sent.

If still available would you consider shipping to Arizona?

Thanks. I’m a big fan of how this turned out with the clean look. I’m now trying to clean up the internals where I relocated the control box and have it wired up with a solenoid that can be activated by the Aux switches. I bought the spacers on Amazon but it doesn’t look like they are...

I used the Rugged Ridge spacers and it clears the Mopar steel bumper without issue. Spacers come with longer bolts too so that was nice. I used the ATP winch plate, so can’t say about Bulldog. I also don’t have a bar but from the looks of I think yours is set far enough back it would clear.

This. Mine does the exact same thing. I have Oracle lights installed via the Driver’s side tail light. When I do the 5x unlock only the Driver’s side and hence the Oracles come on; passenger side does not come on and I assume it’s a Tazer issue. When I put the car in reverse, all lights come on...

I moved the control box on mine mostly because I prefer to have a cleaner look up front. As others have noted, I moved the contents of the control box next to the battery. I have to clean it up a bit but for now looks like this.

Not to hijack the thread, but how can one tell if they have the original aluminum steering box vs. the upgraded steel version? I got my 2020 JTR used and only have limited service records. My steering overall feels good and I get just slight wander, I think it’s really the tires picking up a...

Great. I’m interested and in phoenix. Sent you a DM.

Still have these?

Price on these has dropped some. I just scored one for $60. Started offer at 55 and settled at 60 in case anyone else is interested.

I just installed the ZAutomotive trail camera this past weekend and ran the wires through this cap. Took it for a wash Monday and I have this same leak now as the OP. I don’t know how the water gets there but clearly it is. Will be placing some silicone to this soon.