That’s awesome! If you bought it used then found out. But if you bought it new? Without knowing the difference? That’s like buying a very expensive vehicle and worrying about gas mileage.
That 400 lbs figure is only fine/legal if you’re still under the GVWR in the door jamb mounted by a rated by the manufacturer! Never go over that! Or be very careful. What they will do is level out the ride under the rated weight, so you won’t have to lower your headlights at night.
Let me re-fraze that. Ok the weight you loose removing the rear seat will not be entirely offset from the plywood so you will gain payload. But if you’re doing all that excellent work by the way, why not do so with a Max Tow? Unless you have already bought the regular payload Sport S. I know...
I can’t see any reason why using 0W40 Mobil 1 Euro full synthetic oil, that’s the same viscosity at start up, but keeps a thicker viscosity at higher operating temperatures, would do anything wrong? Especially considering that using 0w20 oil has accelerated valve train wear, which is a proven...
You may want to consider getting Max Tow package for the higher payload rating. A reg Sport S will have under 1,100 lbs. start adding all that plywood and extra equipment and passengers will get you overloaded quickly!
If you ever plan on towing over 4,000 lbs, save your $$$$ and find a Sport or Sport S with Max Tow. That way you get the automatic, 4:10 posi rear. Plus around 1,600 lbs payload! The highest available in any trim. Be careful though, most low mileage nice examples are worth almost like you can...
I remember back in the 80’s, running through PA daily in 18 wheeler. Where the dot mixed coal sand with salt and sand into a terrible blackish mix of use treatments. Covering vehicles in black soot like shiot!
With a monthly subscription to a new local car wash, that does a great soft touch job, plus applying a protective ceramic coating, plus every 5-7 months I personally reapply a new coat of Graphene infused Ceramic coating from Ethos, with double application on all forward facing surfaces ...
Back in the daze when everyone was upgrading to halogen, from reg tungsten traditional gas filled bulbs, the Europeans had non sealed beam 7-9” replacement assemblies, made by Cibie’ Z Beam, that allowed you to add the needed not built in halogen bulbs, with up to 150w, that needless to say...
All I know is I’m glad I’m not forced to drive at night. Or I would replace them with at least the Sylvania top if the line halogen bulbs, I’ve used before in a Colorado, but they had two separate low/high beams. I used MORIMOTO TWO STROKE 2.0, in my last Colorado in Ho an lo, that really lit...
Wow! That’s exactly what Jeep needs to build! But with a 6.5’ bed! Add the Max Tow/Payload Package, for a combined load rating of about 2,000 lbs. just enough for a light truck camper slide in. Or just heavier loads.
Having my 2024 Sport S for a year and a half now, with 19,000 adventurous miles in ordinary commute. There’s one major weak spot on all the lower trim levels, that’s the halogen head/fog lights. With Jeep having their price well over the median ($33,000) price point, why do they need to charge...
I had experienced a death wobble at 14,500 miles in my 2024 Sport S all stock. My dealer, Thunder JCDR had me bring it right in. They replaced a leaky steering damper, plus reset the caster, that was at red-.06 on the alignment rack, to green +.1 degree. Now my truck tracks straight an true with...
Manufacturers using PSI over 32, on any stock sized tires are doing so, like 35psi in the door jambs, are for meeting the EPA mileage requirements is all. Actual rule of thumb is to check weight rating on sidewall at max PSI, let’s say for sake of argument that says 2,200 lbs. so that time 4...