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This plus the post about the access hole are making me think my backup plan is the Metalcloak skin.

This is going to be step one. Being on an edge, odds are poor, but I'm going to try. I have panel working tools already, just can't get behind there.

Yeah I'll get by and get a pro opinion when I can. Was just curious if anyone had any fixed there. I don't want access holes drilled. If that's the only way in, I'll drill and install armor instead.

Has anyone had dents removed from behind the rear doors? It's hard to get the light right to see, but I have 3 or 4 dents. 2 are along the door where it almost looks like a dark line and one more below. I want to get them fixed, but access it looking tough in that area. Anyone have dents...

Been watching this with the same question. I have nothing but complaints from people I'm talking to.

I run 4.88s with 37s. I am back to thinking they are correct for 37s. I have waffled with 5.13s, but it drives great and I have zero issues, even at high altitude.

This! Best headlights I have ever seen on a vehicle.

I was too. Both hard tops leak, but Bronco is so bad it whistles unless I have the hvac on recirculate. The panel fitment is visably off. I've had to adjust one window a dozen times now. It will roll up then automatically back down. Once it warms up I'll have to pull the door and try to fix...

The Jeep wheels better even with the bed overhang, but it's also taller and on 37s and Bronco is on 35s. Jeep has better build quality. It's easier to lift and parts are more available and cheaper. Stereo is significantly better. Jeep is easier to work on. The engine bay in the Bronco is...

I would upgrade the rear bar as well becasue a "bent" bar will fit 37s in the under bed spare location. I went Metalcloak here too and sometimes run the spare under the bed if I'm not running my rack.

No flip. Go with one common brand. I am with Metalcloak now. I had mixed components initially and they hit. I'd also upgrade the steering stabilizer.

From experience, I would say tie rod, drag link, and ball joints. Mine all failed after some wheeling with 37s. I caught the death wobble and chased decreasing wobble until all were replaced. If you can swing the knuckles, the time to do it is when you're doing ball joints and steering...

Ran those back in August. Took over 2 months to get mine. I finally sent an email and they said they were backordered, but would ship soon. They shipped the next day.

Jeep claimed that they were eliminating trails above 2 per park/immediate area. I have the message in my text that a buddy forwarded to me. I think it stinks. I was willing to travel further to an area with more BOH trails, which I did a few times last summer. We should get people to comment...

Yeah. NA tunes won't net anywhere near what FI tunes can. I've been happy with what we have though. I can cruise at highway speed in the mountains without issue and 4lo gives me plenty of torque offroad. I have had lots of FI cars but I don't know that I want a FI Jeep. High octane fuel and...

There absolutely is. Gears still need break-in.

This. I wheel alone sometimes. Even when I don't, there have been several times that a winch was necessary and a strap would not work.

LineX here and mine looks perfect too. I'd ask for a fix as well.

I tow frequently with 4.88s and 37s. I only tow 2500-3000lbs, but it pulls fine. I would not want to pull a 6k+ trailer at all though.

Disconnect is on the winch power line. Aux switch is only the control solenoid control. So power wire is still hot all the time. The disconnect helps if the solenoid locks on or with a short in the power wire.