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Has anyone else used this? The one I found on eBay said one has been sold previously. That’s not many out there…

For what it’s worth, the Amazon auto start/stop devices work well. I’ve been using one on my newer Gladiator since removing the malfunctioning Tazer it came with. For $60, it’s a no-brainer.

What tire pressure are you running?

Here’s why:

Yep

To all the people on this thread talking about upgrading your rear driveshaft u-joints, please go look at your rear driveshaft and evaluate the current condition of your u-joints. Report back your findings. Spoiler alert- Stock JT rear driveshafts don’t have u-joints.

I’ve run Rusty’s springs on an LJ, and their rock sliders and control arm skids on a Gladiator. I think their stuff is generally well made.)

A good tire shop should be able to balance BFG ATs without a problem if your wheels are true. I’m not a fan of the beads. They go out of balance every time you stop, and have to redistribute after starting to spin again before they work.

The short answer is that you need less pressure to carry the vehicle when you have more volume. I prefer the ride on 37s at 28 psi. Here’s more info than you probably want: https://www.toyotires.com/media/pxcjubjs/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20200723.pdf

Have you checked Facebook Marketplace for a Rubicon take out? I see them pretty regularly. It may be cheaper if you find one and swap it yourself. You could then potentially sell yours to recover some of the cost.

Rear sway bar links on lifted JTs frequently get loose. I’d check those if you’re lifted.

I’ve seen that stabilizer retainer bolt on the Synergy bracket freeze up and break more than once. From my experience, if going aftermarket, consider Clayton and Metalcloak, in that order.

What’s worse is that you appear to have also lost the flag nut. You can use another comparably strong bolt in place of the factory part, but not having the flag nut means you have to squeeze a wrench back there. It must have been left loose, because those things should have like 110 ft/lbs of...

Whatever it costs, your Jeep will be worth less than before, just because it’s been painted.

Too much “stability”? Really?

Did you use Mopar 8/9 speed transmission fluid?

They may have reduced the base price, but with the way they force you into packages, then couple the packages, you still end up buying more than you want or need. I just built one comparable to my 2020, and the MSRP is $8k more than I paid back then. Inflation sucks.

There’s not an electrical actuator in the transfer case. I really don’t see how what you are experiencing is possible. The planetary gears are spinning at 4:1 when the T-case gets shifted into low. How fast were you traveling when this occurred? If it shifts while going more than a couple of...

Are you saying that it is going from 4 Hi, through neutral, and into 4 Lo while you’re moving? I don’t see how that’s possible. I would think the speed differential would cause it to grind, and not engage.

Dynatrac HD upper ball joints have a snap ring on top which retains them. Both joints become dislodged simultaneously when that happens, so the upper will keep everything in place. I would recommend them if you’re going to be wheeling in a manner that makes breaking u-joints likely.