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As suggested, remove the straight grease fitting and screw in a 90° or 45° angled fitting.

Sorry, I was talking about the diesel earlier when I said it was on the firewall. For the 3.6L the negative cable attaches to the side of the engine compartment, number 3 in the diagram below.

At face value, it sounds like you have a problem with the stock main battery to firewall cable or its connection(s). This is assuming your winch negative cable is attached directly to the main battery negative. If you've modified the wiring away from stock or are using some other attachment...

All lockers use mechanical engagement to lock the two axle shafts together. When talking about electric, air, and mechanical, they all refer to the way in which the lockers are actuated, so no, the OEM is not a mechanical locker as it requires an electrical actuator to engage the locking dogs...

You're oversimplifying things there, making it sound like the process was the equivalent of slapping on some angry grille in a spare hour or two. To actually be honest about it, one had to purchase the four door JK, buy the kit (which was not at all cheap, see here), then perform a decent...

You can't find it because it doesn't exist. YouTube videos are often not accurate, especially if you're watching AI generated ones. I'd suggest reading your owner's manual. https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/auto-door-lock-missing-from-uconnect-menu.108458/

My travel mug full of black coffee.

I hate it when my Jeep has its story taken away.

If it helps, you can see an example of the coolant leak residue here: https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/coolant-loss-or-leak.138470/#post-2891318

Check for a pinkish-white residue on the line going into the bottom of the reservoir. It's been found that the seal in the line connector likes to leak.

The auto lock feature is a decent safety item, so in my opinion it makes perfect sense that the factory defaults it to on. Having the doors locked makes it far less likely for them to inadvertently open in the event of a crash. Speaking of which, if you were to have a wreck severe enough that...

It might help get things lined up, might not. Won't know for certain unless you try.

Your track bar and drag link aren't parallel. They're close to parallel, but close just means the bump steer won't be as bad as it could be if they were farther off. Something else to consider is your tire size and wheel offset choice may have resulted in excessive positive scrub radius. If...

Tires are parts, as are brakes, but it's very possible for brakes to last over 100k miles; that's not happening with tires.

The topic is parts replacement, not general upkeep/maintenance.

Here's a real list of items you are guaranteed to have to replace by 100k miles: - Tires That's it. Everything else comes down to how you use the Jeep, how you maintain it, and luck of the draw. Typical clickbait blowing things out of proportion.

I only see one other mention of that code on this site, and the cause in that one was a bad DEF pump. See below for the info from the service manual concerning this code. P20E8-00-REDUCTANT PRESSURE TOO LOW THEORY OF OPERATION The Diesel Exhaust Fluid (DEF) System uses a solenoid style...

If the code immediately kicks back out after being cleared and the wheel hasn't even rotated yet, then it's unlikely debris on the tone ring would be the cause. C003A-1D indicates the right rear wheel speed sensor circuit current is out of range, ie, when switched on the ABS module expects to...

So you're getting a fault code for the right rear wheel speed sensor... what's the actual fault code? You need to consider that fault codes indicate there is a problem with a system or circuit, they don't necessarily mean a specific part is bad (although that is one possibility). Replacing the...