Search results

Yeah. The shift unit simply will not allow you to shift into first if you're driving over a certain speed. I believe it's 35mph. It's not just a message on the dash, it physically blocks the shifter from moving into 1st.

It did finally throw an error code on the second start up after removal. Dealership is ordering the part, not sure if it's just the solenoid or the entire shifter unit.

Update: Through some troubleshooting, I've discovered removal of the F80 fuse stops the noise. No error codes thrown on the display. I'm still taking it to the dealership this afternoon and letting them know what I found. Sounds like a bad shift blocking solenoid.

Took mine in to have the clutch recall performed after the dealer finally got the master and slave cylinder in. Thankfully they worked the system and did that ahead of time. However, after receiving the vehicle back, I noticed a ticking sound between the 1-2 and 3-4 gates but only at speeds...

Wait, what? People do this?? Good way to burn a clutch out real quick.

Unfortunately, the larger offerings only come in an SL load range which won't cut it for me.

I got mine in the mail last week.

Right, I wasn't insinuating that shouldn't be a part of their considerations. Cost is always a consideration. Not unreasonable at all. I was just referring to the clutch assembly as a whole. When the pressure plate fractures and fly apart, it causes other components in the clutch assembly...

I logged in to My Jeep as well and noticed the difference in titles of the last recall and this one. The last specifically stated a software update. This one specifically states a clutch assembly replacement but parts are unavailable. I'm guessing the reason parts are unavailable is they are...

Was taking the JT to pick up a couple of pieces of furniture about 2 hours away from me. I got 15 miles down the road and noticed some sluggishness in 5th at 60mph so I downshifted to 4th thinking no big deal, fairly normal to have to do up an incline. Then I noticed a bit of roughness so my...

I'm almost certain I have seen the other two you mention, but I've never seen a black soft top around. I'll keep an eye out! I am indeed a Mississippi State grad, 2007.

I looked at the few bed rack options out there that were compatible with a roll up tonneau cover and decided I could make one myself at least as cheap, if not cheaper. Plus I have fun designing stuff like this and seeing it all come together. The final parts came in today and I got the first...

Checking in from Florence area.

Careful when ordering and pay attention to package sizes on the washers and bolts and such. I ordered one type of bolt that had a flanged head thinking it was a pack of 25... it was 1 single bolt for $10 lol

3310T604 - White Powder Coated Solid Unistrut (You'll need one 4 ft piece for front of the bed and two 5 ft pieces for the sides. You'll have to trim them with a chop saw or hack saw) 3312T23 - White end caps (6x) 99186A125 - EPDM Rubber washers to put between the rail and the bed (no real...

Yes. I Used painter's tape to make a template that I laid on the back of the strut to mark the hole locations and drilled by hand.

Really glad I saw this thread. I wanted the trail rail system but it just wasn't worth the price for me. This setup works perfect as a DIY solution. I sourced all of my material from McMaster-Carr. I ordered white powder coated but I'm 99% sure they had black as well.

How much are you asking for the leather seats? Pardon if I missed it. I just saw the $800 for the cloth heated seats.

Everybody has their own list of "must-haves". You need to decide what YOU need. I wanted a base Willys Sport with a Manual Transmission, Aux Switches, and Towing. The reason for this was the upgraded alternator and cooling that comes with those two packages. The one I found on the lot had...

NVM. I see this is in Cali