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Removing the seat is 4 bolts + the wiring harness. I would recommend also removing the limit straps and wiring harness from the front doors, like you're going to remove them, but just open them up until they touch the fender - makes taking the seats out MUCH easier:

Actually, after looking more closely - you DO get the wheels, just no tires.

Maybe obvious, but are you 100% sure all the connectors are seated properly?

Supply shortages... you can order one, but you won't get rear wheels ?

Yes, exactly how I did it! Thanks for drawing that out.

To be clear, this 4-pin connector is not at the license light, it's a foot or so under the bed at the driver's side frame rail where it meets the spare tire mount. It continues on to the actual license lamp connector which is a 2-pin connector. This is not how I wired it. I used the 12V...

There are only 2 pins used in the 4-way connector (1 and 4), you just interrupt the connection to the white/blue banded wire to turn off the license lamps. The black is ground.

The 4-way connector is in the section "License Plate Lamp Harness" in my post - MOLEX 34900-4120 and 34899-4080. I thought @ShadowsPapa posted the pinouts previously. If I am mistaken, I'll post those as well.

Others can chime in, but I'd rather take mine to someone who specializes in gearing than to a dealer who rarely does gears. If you ask around your local Jeep club I'm sure they will give you some reputable names. I suppose the only advantage to taking it to a dealer is if they somehow included...

And here's the pin you tap into:

This is what I used You'll need the tail light connectors to tap into the reverse lights in addition to the parts you have listed already. Also a relay to cut the license lamps when the reverse lights come on. MOLEX Connectors Rear driver's side Tail Light Harness Molex 33482-6201 (male)...

$5000k for a regear? That's double what I paid, and I used Dana Spicer gears...

I was running stock Rubicon rims with BFG KO2's. I just switched to Fifteen52 Turbomac HD Classics a couple of weeks ago - which I also REALLY like.

Is the closed deck the same as this? I would maybe look at forged pistons, too...

Like a few others on this thread, I ran 37's for 2 years with 4.10's, but I drive a 6MT so my experience was different. I rarely saw 5th and never saw 6th gear. On the trails, I would stall frequently even with the Rubicon's crawl ratio - this will not apply to your 8 speed auto, though. I...

I have my winch (same one as the OP) installed in remote mode, moving the solenoid/electronics into the engine bay. Mine is "sunk" into the bumper and won't allow a normal cover. I ended up cutting some UV-resistant plastic and making a cover for mine by forming it with a heat gun. Doesn't...

Interesting... so it's trial and error until you find the right one :) Thanks for posting this, Benny!

If those are 35's there may be no lift. This is what my Rubicon looked like with 35's before lifting (and switching to 37s within 24 hours!)

Yeah, sorry - didn't mean to pile on. I posted that before I read the rest of the thread.