I assume you are not talking about rockhard as being ugly ? Rockhard are not all the bling like some , but they are built awesome and (IMO) are still really good looking.
Two thoughts - try chemical guys upholstery cleaner. It may be called multi surface. It’s the clear stuff. Had excellent results with that on white leather and that refused to come clean.
To add to the no techs give a chit. Mostly true but some do. I just picked up my motor home from service...
I did mine - pulled fuse and aux battery . was working fine for a week then started having odd charging issues. I had to add the jumper between post 1&2 ( maybe it was 5&6-can’t remember off top of my head). Once I did that all has been fine and have proper charging. Maybe that’s unique to me ...
I’m more curious to hear if other people here have had the same issues after a gear swap as I did ? Hopefully this thread will help save someone else from getting the same scare I had. I still do gears the hard way- no lift and the first thing that hit me was a mid match set - the pain of a redo...
Maybe most people already know this. But I didn’t. I have done a few gear swaps mostly on older Dana 30,s,44’s,& 60’s. I never had to deal with shimmed cups on the carrier or a crush sleeve. Fast forward 25 years since my last and now I have. Shimmed cups instead of shimming bearings is ok...
Is the switch needed ? I have never put one on any of my jeeps and never had an issue with battery drain. I have had to add the diodes so it doesn’t feed back to the MH. I never had a switch and never needed power to the jeep when towing.
Well it took me a couple days start to finish to get the cloak lift and steering done. But here’s your twin from the other side of the great river.38’s are perfect. 5.5 on caster. Probably up that to 6.5. Toe in is also a little light but it drives perfectly. Other than my 5:13’s are on the...
Do you have any pics that show how close the tire comes to control arm during full turn to the stops ? Really curious. I have my suspension coming and 5:13 gears sitting on my Bench. Running the metalcloak arms with the AEV wheels. Planning 38’s. Seeing your clearance would be confidence...
Rehash this thread - so running 38’s you can still run a 37 for a spare long as you don’t lock ( rubicon ) would you move the spare to the front or rear if you ran a 37 with 38’s ? Assume rear bit had to ask.
I think I am asking for both. Function as far as off-road is a little less important. I just moved back to Wi from Co and this isn’t wheeling here. But I will still go to Co at least once a year with it. So street performance is very important also.
So I did a ton of research and was going to do all metalcloak game changer , except springs. Was convinced to stick with all MC. Ordered the 3.5” lift for my Rubicon and planned 37’s or maybe 38’s. Anyhow, after doing research I found some rubicons that ran the 3.5” with 37,s and they were crazy...
23 Rubicon. Already have AEV wheels - this is one of the reasons for the MC control arms. What is this missing for running 37's (maybe 38s) ? And yes I will do gears , most likely 5:13. Just thinking about suspension and how much I love a sweet jeep but hate spending money like this. BTW the...
sorry if this was asked - BUT can you not set the bead than air down to about 10psi to get any 37 to fit (even a 38) ? I know you need to air it up before use but many of us carry a compressor anyhow. Asking for a friend.