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i Was worried yesterday it didn’t fully charge the main battery because I didn’t isolate it. So I’m doing that now.

I thought the getting down the road was an issue because N3 was blown? Damn cars are too complicated haha.

i did a quick search and found this: https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/alternator-or-battery.58673/post-963902 not saying it’s not alternator, but is it possible IBS is still calibrating?

Ok, new test just now: Main (engine on) 12.75v N1 12.65v N2 12.75v N4 12.75v N7 12.75v Main (Engine Off, leads disconnected) 12.9v

Well yesterday the on board reading held around 14.3 And 14.4, but today that was down to 12.6. Will take more Nx Post readings in a few.

currently charging the main battery via the positive lead and the negative post, will reconnect everything per instruction later on this afternoon once it’s completely charged.

Lots of good help in here to be sure, big thanks to those who have pitched in.

I plugged into the main battery and the isolated negative you mentioned, but the charger has barely moved in the over an hour it’s been on. Would it make more sense to remove N1 and connect directly to that since it’s goes to Aux?

yeah, once I went to trace each negative lead I saw what you meant by the fender ground. I cleared the check engine codes, after bedtime I’ll start looking into the reverse camera. The UConnect is acting like it’s not even there.

Follow up: the Truck is home! The reverse camera isn’t working, and the check engine light is on. Shuttling back to get my dad’s truck, then I’ll update with new voltages from the N posts.

Gonna try this after swim class. You keep referring to fender ground, where is that located in relation to the negative battery cable location? Normally I just pull that and hang it on the washer fluid filler neck. For charging the aux, I may zip tie it there to be sure.

amazon had the exact part number, wondering how bad the knock off could be?

I was slowly throughout the day able to limp the truck bit by bit closer to home. Because it was in a downtown area, it was a pain to run back and forth for items. Every time would be a half hour trip. All things considered not bad, but not ideal when I've got to get kids on and off the bus...

By the time I got to test it, the batteries were so weak I opted to pull the leads from them so hopefully the Aux didn't completely discharge. All this work I was doing on a side street, and it was time to help with the kiddos so I had to take the path that seemed most likely to find an outcome...

Perfect, thanks!

To clarify (sorry, want to ensure I do it correctly) mark all N# leads, remove all but three, test resistance between N3 and negative battery post on main. sorry if I seem a bit thick, just trying to do things correctly so I’m not misleading or wasting your time (which is very appreciated for...

Main: 14.3V N2: 13.6V N3: 9.89V N7: 0 V

Thank you, I will do that shortly and report back

do I test this by disconnecting all others posts except N3? Because when I tried to do that with N1, the interior showed no signs of power.

14.3V with engine running