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I'm a total, over-the-top do-it-yourselfer... and I take advantage of the Jeep Wave oil changes and tire rotations. Why not save a little cash (what, roughly $45.00 each?) to let someone else do it. But... as long as they do it right. Make sure the qty of oil listed on the service receipt is...

I pulled the dipstick after sitting overnight - wasn't even noticeable. I'm sure it's mostly water in the can, or maybe 1/2 and 1/2 (an Americano, to use your Starbucks reference ? ) J&L says to empty every 10k. I'll take a peek at my next oil change which is way before that mark anyway.

Quick update, and @Lunentucker might be interested in this one since he also bought the same can. I've got just under 1000 miles on mine so I cracked it open to see what was in the can. Right now, I have a couple of ounces of oil and definitely water from crankcase condensation as the mixture...

Wait, he HAS a 10mm socket?!?

I am on mobile so I didn't have time to search, but there is a large thread here that should help: https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/392-steering-wheel-retrofit.53314/

My youngest just switched from a permit driver to a licensed driver at the beginning of the month. I took my deductibles from $500 to $1000 across all 6 vehicles - 2 JKs, my 2022 JT, 2020 Explorer ST and a 2015 Charger (not RT!) and a 2019 Cherokee KL to try and save money. Just for switching...

$3k for a tonneau cover??? holy crap... I need to learn how to read MRI's ;)

Please post your results after the dealer repairs on made - good information for others in the future. Good luck!

I wouldn't be concerned with the SS causing the dealer to deny a ball joint warranty, but to Shadow's point, the spacer just might because of the reasons above.

Just focusing on the first part of your post, was there any chance you had your JT in 4WD? What you described (sort of) is what can happen when in 4WD and on dry pavement.

I've been running the stock stabilizer for almost 2-1/2 years with 37" tires and a 2" lift and it's performed just fine. I would not go spending money needlessly just because your prior one was a lemon (which can happen with any production part, unfortunately). As far as the pull, I agree with...

That all depends on what you're wanting to do with your JT. Any mod without a purpose is a waste of money. Let's start with why you're replacing the stabilizer in the first place?

Weird.... Horn, speakers and driver's side door lock are not operational... WTH?

Just on the window sticker, don't get toooo excited :)

Great point

Sorry, but I disagree - I have done a bunch of them using this exact tool. The only issue is the rollover crimps at the end and all the other tools mentioned above will have the same issue since they are all essentially open barrel tools like the one I posted.

Good luck! I've done a bunch of the TE connectors with that tool - buy a bunch and practice

Not that you asked, but some advice that may help. The crimp closest to the receptacle end will crimp with that tool with no problem since it's a "standard" open barrel that ends up looking like the letter B when it's done. This is the one that gets crimped into the actual conductor. The other...

I have used this one on a number of these small automotive pins: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M1YK5FM?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title You just need to be careful as it's not exactly made for the ones near the end so it takes some finesse.

I also used the 12V power adapter "tap" so I didn't have to cut/splice any factory wires (formerly known as the cigarette lighter plug for all of us old folks). I pulled up the rubber insert at the top/middle of the dash cubby, dropped a hole through the top of the dash and mounted a 2-port USB...