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^^The whole zinc shim thing for the door hinges is a little puzzling to me. I get the thought process behind why they did it. Zinc is less noble than aluminum in the galvanic series, so they appear to be using the zinc as a sacrificial anode to protect the aluminum hinge and door...

When brand new, I treated all of my hinges, doors & tailgate with Boeshield (I bought a gallon of it a while back). I have not treated my hood because it is steel (Mojave). I used a drip bottle, and applied Boeshield to all of the interface surfaces between the hinges and doors & body, and let...

Welcome to the JT side.

I typically use water or water with just a touch of Dawn dish soap in it to track down the source of 'rubbery' sounding squeaks.

My Warn fairlead was clearcoated when new. The first time I used the winch, it 'smeared' the clearcoat and made a mess. I ended up stripping the clearcoat and polishing it. The only downside is that it needs to be polished occasionally because it starts to get light surface oxidation.

I found the same thing when I was looking for a GC Trackhawk. Super tempting deals on Canadian vehicles. IMO, I wouldn't consider anything from Canada that doesn't have a CanAm warranty with it. If it has a CanAm warranty, it should be listed on the window sticker.

Hahahahahahahahaha! You stated that what I posted was different from what we have on our vehicles. It is NOT different. It is pretty easy to see in the info that I posted I'm referring to the VEHICLE SIDE PLUG side. Did you even look at the instructions and see the word "VEHICLE END" on it...

It's a standard USCAR plug on the vehicle side. Ours is not different from what I posted. You are confusing the socket with the vehicle side plug.

I'm betting it is shown on the factory wiring diagrams, but they are standard trailer plugs. The pin-out diagrams for the plugs can be found on line. For example, here is the info on the vehicle side plug from the Curt web site...

The filter comes with instructions on how to clean it.

You can also use Nyracord mud flaps, which are nylon-reinforced rubber flaps for semi trucks. They are very tough and flexible. I used Nyracord to make custom flaps for my JK. the only problem is that you need to figure out a mounting solution.

You can also look into adding a spacer plate under the winch. I wasn't happy with the fairlead alignment on my JK, so I ended up adding a 1/8" thick 6061-T6 plate under the winch. If you do add any type of spacer plate, make sure that the mounting hardware length is correct to give you proper...

Check these out: https://www.campsitecarbon.com/collections/all-products/products/fairlead-block-off

My advice is to use a DA polisher and good quality pads. Also, always start with the least aggressive pad & compound to see how the paint & scratches react. IMO, it is better to have to keep polishing than to wish you hadn't polished as much. I really like Meguiar's 205. I find that it works...

Just put some painter's tape over it. If the noise goes away, then you know what it is, and you can fix it without all the dealer hassle.

Check the gap on the back side of the A-pillars (see pic below). I had to fill this gap with automotive foam tape to fix my wind noise. Before filling the gap, it sounded like I had a window just barely cracked open. To see if this is your problem, simply cover this area with blue painter's...

My Warn Zeon came with instructions that included torque and required bolt length based on mounting plate thickness:

Like troverman said, it happens. I serviced rear brakes on my friend's XTerra Pro4X, and they were gone at about 20k miles. It was a MT vehicle, and the guy drove it like he stole it from day 1. The brake-based traction control was apparently limiting rear wheel slip a lot. On my 2014 JK, I...

Yes, a lot of people. Here are just a few discussions: https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/roof-leak-in-back.25332/...