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Retrofit? No. Customization? Maybe. I guess the first thing to try would be to have a person with the fob stand at the rear door while another person tries to open the front door with the existing passive locks. That should show if the existing antennas/sensors etc will pick up the fob from...

Sadly, our JK has manual windows (and everything else. Special ordered the way the boss lady wanted it), so no help there.

Just spitballin' before I had my morning coffee. Wondering what the engineering reason was for making them so much harder to push (or pull) than previous models.

I wonder if that tension is for a reason? Maybe to prevent switch bounce during hardcore off-roading?

I suggested the sugru earlier.... not sure how well it would work with the rubberized coating on the switches though? It would be ugly, but easy to work with and it would certainly be proof of concept. You could even mold a light pipe in there for the light. I just gotta say that threads like...

From that thread: https://www.mobilityinnovations.com/products/driving-aids/extension-controls/

A friend of mine's wife had her right arm amputated at the shoulder as a teen. Yes, she does tend to hide it in photos, but IRL it barely slows her down. A few years ago I built her a jig to support the magazines for her guns so she can reload them easier. And yes, she can rack the slide on her...

I'm not sure if it's possible (or at least economical) to 3D print in translucent purple. However, it might be possible to mold in or drill out for a small light pipe to transfer the light to the end of the new switch cover if you really need to retain the switch lighting. Or maybe just a small...

So, like I said, I'm no CAD guy, but this was my idea. 3D print something like this, and attach to the face and bottom of switches with strong 3M double sided tape. Maybe use modeling clay to get the exact shape of the bottom and face so you dont need to buy/sacrifice a junkyard one.

What if you used something like sugru to mold a toggle lever onto one of those aftermarket trim pieces on Amazon? Wouldn't be pretty, but if nothing else it would be a pretty easy proof of concept.

I don't know cad or 3D printing either. But I do know that there are a lot of smart people out there who do, and enjoy doing it to be helpful and maybe even make a few bucks. Some even specialize in 3D printing Jeep stuff.

My thoughts: Contact one of the companies that specialize in outfitting vehicles for handicapped people. They might already know of a solution. Design and 3D print a toggle lever to go on the OEM switches. Without going out to look at mine, my first thought is the lever could maybe latch under...

Besides what has already been mentioned: * Radios generate heat, especially when transmitting.Modern electronics do not like heat. It may/may not be a problem in such a small sealed space. * "How do you plan on operating it? With the console open? While off-roading? * Even with the console...

Ok, now I'm officially a 2 timer. ALMOST made it until inspection, until this happened last week. Safelite is coming Thursday, hoping to get inspection scheduled for Friday am.

If you weren't such an obvious shill, I'd point out you just recommended the exact OPPOSITE of what the OP wants.

Shill much?

Besides the obvious "is the latest firmware installed?" and "did you follow the parts about reboots and sleep cycles in the directions EXACTLY?" that have already been asked, I'll add "are you hitting the unlock a bunch of times?". Because there is a feature to intentionally control the bed and...

I knew the top end was different, and obviously the oil pan/pickup, and I understand the impact oil viscosity has on hydraulic valvetrains, so I assumed that was the issue. Didn't realize the short block changed too. Interesting.

I figure they spent a lot of money paying people to study what oil was best, so I try to stick with it, at least in stock engines. That said, it still irks me a bit that I have two 3.6L Jeeps a few years apart in age, and one takes 6qts of 5W-20 and the other one takes 5qts of 0W-20.

When I bought my Gladiator, I specifically ordered it without the LED package because at the time my job required me to be able to get to work in snowstorms, and the worse the snow the more important it was to get there. Never had a problem with the halogens freezing up as long as they were...