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Ahh, that makes more sense. So to swap the axle shaft, you still have to pull the entire hub? It MAY increase tow capacity if they can keep the engine cool. Wranglers get all the fun goodies and Jeep leaves us in the wind.

the full float isn't really a full float.. the long jounce tubes stink. The 4.56s are great and should be available on all the models anyway.

That plastic piece is the cover for the adaptive cruise module when you fold the windshield down.

yes, it should be safe after 20-30 minutes.. the Z fuse is the one that normally pops in that process, and they are a lot more expensive than the clips on the fenders.

I think I would try pulling the passenger front tire, and removing the entire inner/outer fender, you don't need the battery tray out, you just need it out of your way.. https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/aux-battery-replacement-the-easy-way-pull-the-fender-flare.56807/ That shows...

The official fix requires removal of that fuse box, but there are a couple gotchas doing it.. what are you replacing the oe box with? Have you already removed the aux?

Do you have adaptive cruise?

take the inner fender and outer fender off the passenger side and reinstall it that way?

Probably smarter to lop 2 cylinders off the 5.7 Hemi.. we already have motor mounts from the 392 and we eliminate the cam eating bits of the 3.6. Get's the end product into the 4.3 liter range.

You are going to get a ton of opinions now. 5.13s in 8th are the same as 4.10s in 7th. So if you only need another 100 or 200 rpm to hold it in 8th, and you don't drive 85mph everywhere, look at 4.88s or 4.56s. This calculator is handy: http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html

Mopar steel front.. but mine is a soft top manual, so basically as light as you can get one..

My wife is 5'5" and hops up there without any issues.. it's all about technique. It's not skirt friendly though.

29" at the bottom of the hinge side of the front door. 29.5" at the back edge of the rear door before it angles up..

I can't do bottom of cab, too much variance in rock rail coverage etc. I can get you bottom of door, or bottom of window. This is with a Clayton 3.5 and 37's

A 4.5" lift with sport fenders on 37's will give you a ton of room in the wheel well. I have a 3.5" clayton with 37s and there is room for 38's with no issues.

There are a handful of gearing threads on here, and a couple diesel specific ones. I think 37s on 3.73s are ok, but jumping to 38-39-40 is where you really need to regear. Feel free to plug in numbers here (http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html), but I think 35's on 3.73s is the sweet spot for...

You are right in the middle, 4.56s or 4.88s. Use case might help us here. Are you planning any towing or carrying tons of extra weight? If yes, I think 4.88s is your answer.

That wheel calculator stinks, it doesn't take width into play. The wheels the OP is running are 12" wide, -44. The new ones are only 9" wide and -12. He has the backspace listed in the original post. He will have a 1/4" more room to the suspension than the 22x12s he's currently running.

For an automatic Rubicon, regearing isn't truly required.. with a sport manual, I would argue it is, especially offroad. But everything else gets into the gray area where it could help, and specific use cases come into play. You probably won't gain any mileage unless at your cruising speed you...

Yes you can. Your gladiator is probably already set for the correct tire height. There isn't much difference in diameter between the 255/75 and the 285/70. The wider tires won't rub on anything and definitely look better on the factory wheels.