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After a few days of driving all seems well except service stop/start is still persistent. Voltage check question: When I remove the aux neg cable and check the aux voltage, it reads about 12V (my meter is analog, not digital.) The main battery is about 13V. Does 12V for aux seem right...

Part of the problem is that last sentence. How are folks supposed to know what "should have" been done? It's not in the manual and it seems dealership service departments are unaware, too (in my experience.) Now that I know, I know. But only because I ran into an issue when I hastily installed a...

I always wondered what that was, thanks! To charge the aux can I hook my charger to positive on main battery and the negative wire running to aux after disconnecting it or is there more to it?

The fuse is fine (N3 from memory?), I checked that. What's the IBS and how do I reset it?

I have a Tazer I use to disable it so that's not an issue, just want to avoid any future issues. The tech came back and said the aux battery was completely dead and a bad battery. That would explain why the start/stop light was still on, but I'm not 100% sold on the explanation. It was new as...

I started getting symptoms of a dead aux battery, including start/stop unavailable and aux switches unavailable. I replaced the aux battery, then the main battery as it went out a couple weeks later. All seems good, except that start/stop error light persists. It's been a couple weeks ago I...

I've had this happen twice while under warranty. First time they replaced the axle, second time (a few months ago) they replaced the sensor only. The light has flashed a few times since so there may be a third in my future.

Got my Jeep back and they were able to replace the sensor this time instead of swapping the entire axle. 👍

Don't get me wrong, I realize the complexity and never said it would be easy. Just pointing out that sometimes doing things the same way because "that's how it's always been done" is usually a good opportunity for someone to jump in and disrupt the status quo and come up with a better solution.

Sounds like an opportunity for Jeep to buck the trend and create some differentiation, then. Most Jeep owners I know will just say "it's a jeep thing" when things like this come up and either live with it, fix it on their own, or look to the after market. Proactive notifications would go a long...

Does the dealer now replace the sensor or do they still swap the entire axle? I got a new axle last time this happened. The last comment in that thread implies they can now replace the sensor, which is my hope.

Resurrecting this thread as this is now happening on my replacement axle. Time to call the dealer, but I was curious if anyone has dealt with this recently and if the full axle swap was still Jeep's best resolution?

I'm at 3 years 1 month of ownership, so outside of my basic warranty. While it would've been nice to have received a notification from FCA about this TSB, I'm not sure I'll go through the hassle of fighting to get it done just to move where the water hits my legs down a few inches.

Oracle tail lights installed that I bought in April 2021. Better late than never, they look great.

I use the Rugged Ridge bags (link in first thread response.) I can easily move them around the garage or take them wherever is convenient to be out of the way (basement, back deck, etc.).

Georgia pass (Colorado), mostly just a bumpy road but still has snow up top. I was alone so I didn't drive too far into the snow.

Putting it another way, when I lived 5 minutes away from AutoNation on Arapahoe, I chose to drive 30 minutes to take my jeep to Broadway. Hopefully they work out for you.

If you're asking about Autonation on Broadway, I've taken my jeeps there a few times over the years and always walked away happy. It's not my first choice only because of location, but they did good work at a good price.

More than happy to go with the non-dealer option, but then if I have an axle issue down the road the dealer can say they won't cover it under warranty. I had my rear axle replaced already and if not for the warranty it wouldn't have been cheap.

Every time I check in on this thread and re-gearing comes up, it reminds me that I should probably re-gear :headbang:. I'm sticking with 35's so no need for 5.13's for me but maybe 4.88's. I'd like to retain warranty so I tried my regular dealer (Littleton Autonation) but they won't do it.