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Cost wise it’s a bit more yea but it’s about the same amount of work. I’ve taken apart my suspension twice now good learning experience. Also I agree with the changes, with the AEV kit I kept the stock track bars and controls arms(I did get the AEV geometry correction brackets when I put the kit...

Yea it’s odd. Maybe a bad batch of boots for the fronts. I was happy with the spacer lift for a few years, but I’ve since upgraded to metalcloak 2.5” springs front and rear and still using the AEV bump stops, shock extensions, and links. Also added metalcloack front track bar and rear track bar...

@GladLad My rears are still in good shape but yea the fronts didn’t last long. Still have them on there they’re solid/tight besides the boot. Might get some apex designs autolynx soon.

Hello. Have a question for you. I just installed some metalcloak 2.5 inch coils and i notice the upper coil isolators look a little slanted. Maybe it’s suppose to be this way but is yours lower on the shock side like this? Mine also gave me a pretty significant lift, like 4.5 but Itll probably...

what’s the diy slammer? Interested as I don’t want to pay $250 for the desert does it ones.

Yup new pitman arm fixed my issue. Impact bent it. Luckily it was the only thing that bent. My sector shaft brace from metalcloak saved my gearbox. Spent like $110 on pitman arm from rockauto and then I bought a new bumper from metalcloak for almost $1000. Did this instead of paying deductible...

I have the rear locker (Mojave). Yup I followed your recommendation I did remove it and cleaned off all the shavings with q-tips. Left it nice and clean on both ends. Honestly I only ever used the locker once before and I haven’t had a chance to engage it since i changed it but I’ll try next...

I did the same 👍🏽

Just looked at them 5 minutes ago. Everything is actually “15% off”. I think everything was 15% off when I bought my soft top from them a few years go so that might be all the time lol -No windows is cheapest but you don’t get the positive pressure vent up top and no cab access sliding window...

Thanks👍🏽 no I wouldn’t do 40s on the stock 44. Don’t think ill ever want 40s lol Went 37s because i got a killer deal(price matching at discount tire) paid 280 a tire instead of 480 for some yoko geolandar x-ATs. Honestly seems ok with the 4.10s, it handles em fine. Even towing it’s not a huge...

If you could go back would you do 5.38s or have the 5.13s been perfect? I’m usually loaded up when camping towing a small camper trailer and occasionally towing dirtbikes on a trailer. Currently stock 4.10s with 37s. Was thinking 5.13s also but wondering if there’s any pros/cons of just going 5.38

Currently doing mine. Might be a dumb question but is there a torque spec on the torx screw on the locker sensor? EDIT I just gave it a nice calculated hand tightening . Nice and tight without stripping the head.

I just scored some redline 75w140. Been a fan of redline for a while now so it’s going in everything I own. For transfer case I’m getting the redline C+ ATF(Chrysler compatible). Did you ever choose between the 2? I know it’s been over a year lol

Just bought 2 quarts of redline 75w140 and 1 75w90. Will do the rear 140. Front will get the 90 then topped off with what’s left of the 140 from the rear. Researched some other guys on the wrangler forum doing that so figured I’d do it since it’ll only take less than 3 quarts total. I’m going...

6’4” and gladiator was roomier than a Tacoma so I went gladiator. That and solid front axle. Same it’s not a lot of room but it’s just enough. I’ve done a 10 hour drive and was good. Right knee does rest on the t-case lever.

2020 Mojave 51k miles now. -both heads replaced ~40k miles, burning coolant due to warpage both heads. I’ve taken care of it too so maybe not torqued right from factory? After they replaced the second head this January(replaced a month apart) I’ve had a little studder when I’m feathering the...

How’s it been with the 140? Did you do that in the front and rear? I’m about to purchase some redline 75w140 but now wondering if I should put 75w90 in the front diff or just 140 in both.

About to buy some redline 75w140 for the rear of my Mojave(tru-lok e-locker no additive). I almost bought the gallon for both front and rear but I’m thinking should I just put the 75w-90 in the front or you think I’ll be ok just putting the 140 in both? I tow a teardrop and my dirt bikes more...

Yea same with me, I like the weight and function of my outlander but being able to haul the kayaks would be nice. I fold it only a few times a year if that, like today I almost purchased a quad. Coulda just folded and brought it home. Onto the negatives, I’ve had 1 person unzip my side zipper...

How much are they asking? This topper came with c clamp type mounting brackets. And a t type that goes into the rail systems similar to yours. If you buy, maybe the guy will include them. If not, it’s literally the same type of clamps that hold on camper shells . You can see them in my post...