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The $39.20 lifetime warranty certificate which "they sucked her into paying extra for" would have given you a free tire replacement instead of the $390.15 or $507.75 you need to pay now. L.

The big question that nobody has asked yet is: are you going to wheel it. If you are going to wheel it, then do the work yourself and use that as an opportunity to learn about your vehicle. It will save you a lot more anxiety down the road when you go off the pavement. If you weren't planning...

Do you have a cold air intake or a snorkle?

I just installed Dynatracs a few weeks ago. The install wasn’t too bad, with the exception of pressing them in. Initially I couldn’t tell if they’re going in at the correct angle. It got easier with each ball joint. That said, this isn’t a process that I would want to go through multiple times...

I am not. I’m running only a 2.5” lift (Clayton Overland+ - I know that they run tall…). What size would you recommend?

I’ve been looking at an upgrade to Adams…

I recently noticed some noise coming from the rear end and I think I tracked it down to the driveshaft carrier bearing. See the video below. Any idea what this could be? Any help and suggestions would be appreciated!

My bad. I was thinking about 37s, not 35s. Does Willys come with the wider axle like the Rubicon or the Max Tow package? L.

It’s a liability issue. Your tire is out of spec for your rim. If you ever get in a major accident, your insurance company may try to blame that. When that happens, you will likely blame the installer.

You don't need this much negative offset to fit these tires. I'm running 0/4.8" 703s with KO2 37x12.5R17s on a JTR with 2.5" Clayton Overland+ and they are already poking out.

I'm in Littleton too and I used to do all my work at CORE Offroad before they went out of business. I'm hearing good things about EDGE in Englewood. High Country is also supposed to be good, but they are more expensive. Have fun with your build!

It's not 5 hours of labor. Your driveshaft replacement will take at least a hour of labor. Add six hours for the lift install and you're at 7 hours. Then add $200-$300 for an alignment. Ask the shop to break it down to this level off detail. $1,700-$2,000 is a normal price. I've been quoted...

OK, but what's the benefit over a regular bed?

What's the point of these? You lose the space below the wheel wells and raise your center of gravity. Honest question.

I don’t know JKS, but Clayton definitely runs high. The 2.5” lift will give you 3-3.5” of lift.

My blind spot monitors usually turn off when the sensors on the tail lights get covered by dust or mud. Make sure they're clean before you do any more troubleshooting.

I believe that Clayton only recommends the HD springs if you're carrying extra weight in the bed AT ALL TIMES. I wouldn't even consider HDs if your regular bed load is under 300 lbs (500lbs ideally). L.

I was making the same decision last year. AEV makes quality stuff but I went with 703s because of: - the weight difference - every pound of rotational mass matters, - bead grip technology - it actually makes a difference when you air down, - brake caliper clearance - my big brake kit wouldn't...

My question exactly...

Love your stuff. Keep up the good work!