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Normal I think. I try not to beat up my gear but all 5 have grind rash after a few years of running 6-7ish trails

I have the Icons. If you’re getting beadlocks because you actually need them, you will grind the outer rims hard and they won’t be as beautiful as new for long. I learned Icon does not sell bronze touch-up paint either. Might be a point in favor of beadlocks with replaceable outer bash rings...

I love the Front Runner collapsible chairs. But I have a very small space I need them to go in, and apparently I don’t care much what chair I sit in. So they work for me

The diesel pump is rotated about 90 deg relative to the gas pump. No idea why, presumably some clearance issue somewhere. If you loosen the center section of the intercooler hard pipe, you have good access to the harnesses from above. (If you don’t loosen it, you may still be able to wiggle...

Yes, it’s possible to rekey it. I got the Mopar locking fuel cap, keyed it myself, wasn’t hard. Same process for the locking box. When I removed and sold mine (had to for the rear-seat delete platform setup I built) I included a pair of the rekey kits

Beware, the little torx bolts securing the rotor to the hub are soft. The Torx splines came off one of mine like butter. I managed to get it loose with a screw extractor, then omitted them on reassembly

I wondered if it might be as simple as pulling a fuse to cut power to the PS motor - nope, the fuse for the electrohydraulic power steering (EHPS) is one of the high current lines (125A) bolted down to the Z case fuse. N6 on my diesel.

High Rock Canyon? If so - we really enjoyed making a loop of it from Black Rock Playa, thru High Rock, return via “Little High Rock to Steven’s Camp Back Door” (that’s the trail name in OnX) and Calico Mountain Jeep Trail. The two return legs were just as good or better than High Rock itself...

No problem in my Gladiator. Personally I wouldn’t make that first hairpin without getting out and spotting inch by inch, but you do you. If you get on a bad entry line you’ll want to back up and try again. However if you get on a bad exit line, hope your life insurance is paid up

Should not leak - mine didn’t. Seems like you gotta pry pretty hard to break the seal even with no bolts (at least the factory seal)

I’m 6’2” and had no need at all to cut the rear tracks for more headroom. Just needed more support under the thighs. Big thumbs up

Wheel speed sensor is unrelated to TPMS, totally separate systems. But the speed sensor does dangle alongside the brake line, it’s possible for it to get damaged I suppose. Or pulled when articulating, especially if you have a lot more droop than stock

Ride with us and you’ll find out lol (it’s just bug spray, headnets, and mosquito coils)

Screw and washer thru the hole in the quick fist, thru the panel, washer and nut behind the panel. Or go wild with zip ties maybe

I mean, they’re all labeled 🤣

Yeah, exactly. Plumbing ended up being a bit complex as there’s the 1.5” fill tube, a 3/4” fill vent back to the filler neck (the diesel foaming and splashback if you get this wrong is shocking, ask me how I know), a 5/16” vent hose through the bed to the stock tank vent (for pressure relief)...

Fuel (diesel) in the lower tank. Water in the upper tank behind the molle panel

This is the thread you’re looking for: https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/diesel-cooling-options-and-ideas.46298/ Probably don’t need to read the first several years, maybe start at the end.

I’m very happy with Clayton 3.5” diesel springs in front. I had the same while stock, frequently on the bump stops unless crawling. I think Clayton makes the same spring rate available with several ride height options, so you can pick the lift that suits you