It did fix my disengagement issues for about 15k miles. In my case the boot on the internal cylinder failed to keep crud out of the actuator, so it bound up far worse than their first rendition. Honestly, now that I have about 2k miles on the ACT unit, with factory slave setup, Im happier with...
:CWL:I literally have the exact same issue. I have to stay on spraying my evo links with a silicon spray or its wicked annoying. The JKS fronts are great.
The ACT system retains the factory arm and a factory style throw-out bearing. Going back to a factory clutch setup wouldn't change any of the mechanics of the system. Currently I have the CF master cylinder and braided line, to a factory external slave, and a ACT street mass flywheel and clutch...
When you installed your control arms and track bars, did you have the truck sitting on the ground? Sometimes people overlook that and torque things with axles hanging, causing a preload effect that can be inconsistent. My experience with beads is all positive for what its worth. Two different...
Centerforce clutch and internal slave cylinder. 21,457 miles on it. Had the pressure plate get full of mud, would not come out of gear. Ended up pulling the trans and switching to ACT. It is in good shape and would be great for someone who doesn't really wheel their rig. The only thing not...
No, not in like a plating like zinc or anodized. Literally made a thicker plate for more surface area of the bolt shank, and reemed the hole to the proper clearance, then welded it to my track bar mount. No more shifty shift under heavy side loads.
Simple 3/16 plate, I will have some pictures after Saturday as my rock jock high steer kit and knuckles came in today, along with an apex steering boost kit. So Saturday will be busy.
That would be a very odd size full thread bolt. With the Grimm kit I was able to plate and reel the holes to an exact nominal size. It's working very well.
Here is the diameter difference in the bolts. I believe this, with the added force of a heavy wheel tire combo, different geometry than stock with the lift kit, and paper thin track bar mount material caused the issue. Since switching to the full shank, and plating my track bar mount I have had...
Interesting tech info for sure. Ill take less tq, with a peoper fitting shank, than balls tight with a couple mm gap. I don't think the mopar engineers planned on me wedging a 110lb 37 into a rock either, soo.....