Design issues/learning how to design. Corners not perfect, theres a strange seam/line vertically that we can't remove without messing up the whole light itself. The blind spot stuff all works, lights work. They sit decent on body. Just not perfect.
Didn't turn as well as we thought. Have been running them for about 6 months with no issue. Blind spot seems to work close to factory. Learned a lot with this design. Starting from scratch on new set with 6in oval lights...
No spacers, I did have some rubbing full lock but that was on the bottom inner part of the fender flares. I chose to cut out some of the structure behind it and pull the factory inner back and held in with zip ties in a couple places. I never had any rubbing else where and I also have coilovers...
I posted a few pics on this thread. They are 17x8.5 icon rebound pros with 38x13.50... also at one point had 40s on same tire. 38s never rubbed. Are you wanting new wheels or thinking you have to get new wheels?
There is intent to sell but probably will just be the housing and maybe a harness. Will be slow... Work full time with a family. Each housing takes approximately 30hrs to print. Plus I dont think I want the headache of "warranty". Not really looking to make money as much as help with another...
I see it too, but at the same time the light is the same size (6") as motobilts, and combat and I think rugged was the other. I just chose to not make it with the standard oval. Which may change but will take on a redesign.
I have been working with my brother, as he has the ability to print my dreams. Im not entirely happy with them but it's where I am at the moment. Amazon special lights, eteailer side marker and making my own harness. I have the fancy smancy lights so my blind spot will stay and work. Opinions...
I did not use the hose, but the straight section may be long enough to extend what you need to. I chose to use this instead. Also, I looked at the no eco kit and it's nice. But it's under the hood. Which was my thoughts on just the 409 exhaust... its under the truck. So at half the cost or less...
There are supply and return lines(5/8") that go to the cooler... they also feed the turbo but use the cooler as a "tee". So one of the 5/8 lines is long enough to put a reducing coupling and connect to turbo and the other you need to make the 5/8 line longer then connect to turbo. These are all...
I appreciate the information but I do not see necessary parts to completely remove both high and low egr coolers with associated piping. Maybe I've missed something?
So I pulled my 2600 deck over around a bit yesterday... 25miles. I noticed nothing abnormal. Mixed through town and back the highway. I'd personally reinstall trans tune and not tow or drive aggressively for a bit. I'd not rule out that something was wrote incorrectly in the tune but I'd say...
If I remember correctly, 40s and 488s should get you close to stock ratios... I would have done 488s most likely but 392 gears at the correct price wins. If you can afford the down time, id say its worth removing the coolers. Just have to be slightly creative to make it work.
I have approximately 250 miles since eoc stg2 tow tune and trans tune. I haven't noticed and odd behavior from transmission other than first 50 or so miles it seemed to be "learning" and I drove easy 50%throttle or less for 200 miles. I have a 2600lb trailer I can drag around a few miles and see...
10 degrees or so is what I noticed but that's just going based off memory and no documentented info.
I did everything at the same time, eoc stage 2 tow tune, trans tune, and egr delete. 38s, 4:56 gears. About 50% 40 to 55mph, 15% city and rest is 75 80 on highway
I added some info in another post but this may help someone. I removed both high and low egr coolers. Purchased a 2nd gen egr delete kit (cheapest I could find on internet), 2- 3/8" to 5/8" barbed radiator hose connectors/ hose clamps (Summit Racing) , need about 12" 5/8" radiator hose(Summit...