No More EGR Coolers

[Harlan83]

I added some info in another post but this may help someone. I removed both high and low egr coolers. Purchased a 2nd gen egr delete kit (cheapest I could find on internet), 2- 3/8" to 5/8" barbed radiator hose connectors/ hose clamps (Summit Racing) , need about 12" 5/8" radiator hose(Summit Racing), assortment of small rubber radiator piping caps (AutoZone) Need to remove things to get to the coolers. Need to lay on top of engine to get to the one on the backside. other is accessible from the top/bottom and through passenger side fender. On the back side you need to connect the 3/8 turbo coolant lines to the 5/8" lines, Install blank off plate. Also made a little "L" bracket to hold intake piping in place. On the other cooler the bracket/blank off plate is slightly different. This was cut and welded to make work, pretty simple. added another bracket to hold pressure sensor ridged. Removed rubber 90 and capped. Capped the vacuum line that fed the egr actuator. Install blank off plates from kit. I didn't document a lot or take many pictures. You'll have to remove exhaust to get to egr piping to remove it from back of engine. Probably 8 to 10 hours over a few evenings and maybe $100 or so in it.

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[1945gpw]

I’m still waiting for EOC to release their kit. But thanks for posting what you did. have you noticed any cooler water temps after removing? On bigger 3/4 and 1 ton trucks I have noticed cooler temperatures so hoping it does a little for these as well.

 

[1945gpw]

I saw in your other post that you increased 4 mpg, what are you averaging now? Did you do the EOC tune and remove the egr at the same time? Curious because I haven’t seen a big increase in mpg compared to stock with the egr still on. But I didn’t have any miles on it ether so nothing was clogged up

 

[Ericshere03]

Good job! Info on the low pressure cooler is scarce …

 

[Harlan83]

10 degrees or so is what I noticed but that's just going based off memory and no documentented info.

I did everything at the same time, eoc stage 2 tow tune, trans tune, and egr delete. 38s, 4:56 gears. About 50% 40 to 55mph, 15% city and rest is 75 80 on highway

 

[Harlan83]

19.6 to 19.8 is hand calculated fuel economy

 

[Ericshere03]

10 degrees or so is what I noticed but that's just going based off memory and no documentented info.

I did everything at the same time, eoc stage 2 tow tune, trans tune, and egr delete. 38s, 4:56 gears. About 50% 40 to 55mph, 15% city and rest is 75 80 on highway

What kind of MPG are you seeing now?

I have a stage 1 EOC towing tune, 35” and stock gears without a lift at a hair of 26mpg commuting to work (some city and some highway) … prior to the tune I was 22.

since you have the EOC trans tune as well, have you towed with it? Any odd behavior??? I reported on another thread my observations and actually put the stock trans tune back on … for now. Awaiting response from EOC. Unloaded the trans tune is great, but towing it was doing some weird things.

 

[Harlan83]

Before tune, I would be 15.6 to 16.3 (winter fuel, more remote starts). Same fuel/remote starts, Im 19.6... 19.8

 

[Harlan83]

What kind of MPG are you seeing now?

I have a stage 1 EOC towing tune, 35” and stock gears without a lift at a hair of 26mpg commuting to work (some city and some highway) … prior to the tune I was 22.

since you have the EOC trans tune as well, have you towed with it? Any odd behavior??? I reported on another thread my observations and actually put the stock trans tune back on … for now. Awaiting response from EOC. Unloaded the trans tune is great, but towing it was doing some weird things.

No, I have not towed with it yet. And no odd behaviors.... most i notice is more proper downshifts, instead of holding higher gear

 

[Ericshere03]

No, I have not towed with it yet. And no odd behaviors.... most i notice is more proper downshifts, instead of holding higher gear

How touchy is 1st gear from a stop? For me it’s super touchy and just wants to rip!

I started a thread about my experience … perhaps chime in when you have a chance to tow …

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/eoc-transmission-tune.91981/#post-1483392

 

[Harlan83]

How touchy is 1st gear from a stop? For me it’s super touchy and just wants to rip!

I started a thread about my experience … perhaps chime in when you have a chance to tow …

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/eoc-transmission-tune.91981/#post-1483392

I suppose it's touchy.... throttle response is quick.... I prefer it like that. But I have not towed or been off road to have a complaint yet.

 

[BlueScapegoat]

Thanks for the cooler info. I'm considering do the same.

To add to the mpg conversation... I'm on 40s and still the 3.73s. (4.88s in the mail) and get about 16.5 mpg in my daily commute if I keep my foot out of it. That's on an MRTuning stage 2. I got nearly identical mpg on my GDE tune, which was about a 15% improvement over stock originally.

 

[Ericshere03]

Thanks for the cooler info. I'm considering do the same.

To add to the mpg conversation... I'm on 40s and still the 3.73s. (4.88s in the mail) and get about 16.5 mpg in my daily commute if I keep my foot out of it. That's on an MRTuning stage 2. I got nearly identical mpg on my GDE tune, which was about a 15% improvement over stock originally.

Sooooo, with 40’s you get the same mpg as a stock gasser

 

[Harlan83]

Thanks for the cooler info. I'm considering do the same.

To add to the mpg conversation... I'm on 40s and still the 3.73s. (4.88s in the mail) and get about 16.5 mpg in my daily commute if I keep my foot out of it. That's on an MRTuning stage 2. I got nearly identical mpg on my GDE tune, which was about a 15% improvement over stock originally.

If I remember correctly, 40s and 488s should get you close to stock ratios... I would have done 488s most likely but 392 gears at the correct price wins. If you can afford the down time, id say its worth removing the coolers. Just have to be slightly creative to make it work.

 

[BlueScapegoat]

If I remember correctly, 40s and 488s should get you close to stock ratios... I would have done 488s most likely but 392 gears at the correct price wins. If you can afford the down time, id say its worth removing the coolers. Just have to be slightly creative to make it work.

4.88s and 40s is just a smidge higher, perfect for the increased drag and rotational mass, imo. Something like 160 rpm higher than a stock Rubi at 75 mph and 60ish rpm higher than a stock Sport at 75 mph if I recall from crunching the numbers.

Bit off the topic here, but more rotations per speed driven means less output required per rotation and, at least I theorize, less heat. Every little bit helps I think.

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