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Could just replace it, 30 minutes and $50ish. Worst case you have fresh fluid and didn't fix it.

It could be a coincidence but that's the same type situations I was having a similar noise from my rear end when it needed a diff service. I do have a Max Tow so limited slip in the back. If that helps.

Last Wendnesday morning leaving work I open my Driver's door to 1.5-2 inches of standing water. Just the drivers floorboard no where else, never had any issue before and I've changed nothing in over a year. Now I'm in South Central Florida and Rainy season just started with a bang! Say 25" of...

Mine is a Max Tow, so Rubicon width axles, No lift, stock rims ( +44 offset ) no rubbing except at full stuff and full turn in the front, and only slightly.

I run Kenda 35x10.5r17, heavier then these, but same effect. I like my Pizza cutters lol

As shown above there are 2 or 3 bumpers that can. The hooks on the factory setup are the mounting point of the front bumper to the frame, so most aftermarket companies aren't going to built their product around them. Why restrict you own design parameter to a less than perfect OEM design? An...

I have one also. I did have to seal the mounting point due to someone trying to use it as a hand hold, kids..., but it's just as good as the $600 options. They also have one that matches and Mopar Snorkle for less than $200. I don't know for sure but ide imagine it's the same situation. I've...

Oh that light bar is a pain! Bolting them in on the sides with minimal access is ridiculous, to get it tight and keep it from shifting I used one of the rubber feet that it comes with for the "A frame " style mounts and wedged it on the passenger side of the light bar. Couple cuss words and some...

Better a year and a half late than never I guess, lol. The 2 inch cudes being wired to the factory switch is simple. Run the wire for the switch on the Rouch country wiring harness down with the leads for the lights to factory fog light plug on the passenger side front frame rail. Cut the end...

I know this is an old thread, but wouldn't mounting it between the batter and fender sideways be the simplest thing to do? Heck $40 and a trip to Honedepot and you could havile it mounted on a base that slides up and tilts it flat for easy access.

Assuming you figured this out, but you could just wire the supplied switch wire to the foglight switch output line. You have to retain the supplied relay inline to make the lights function.

I was worried about that, but thus far it doesn't bother me. I will probably end up changing to a dust Prefitler inlet instead of the ram scoop. I think it looks better and limiting the dust getting to the filter would be a plus.

I picked up a knock-off RR Amfib snorkle from Amazon. I figured for the $350 lower price if it didn't work.... a heat gun and some sealant I could make it work and not be too mad lol. I was pleasantly suprised!! The differences are minimal, the High inlet base is not branded RR, it actually...

Ya extra height helps.

The spacer would have worked for onroad, but even the Mopar 2" ( more like 3.5 on a Sport) would have problems with turning under articulation I found out.

I like a few of them, but the Rugged Ridge HD stubby is meh. I'll end up getting the Rough Country Tubular winch bumper, to match my Rear bumper. More of a midwidth though.

Stock Bridgestone Dueler 245/75R17 vs Kenda Klever 35/10.5R17. Factory Sport Max Tow rims. Obviously after I swapped the bumper.

So far only $190... when I get around to getting another winch bumper $1k or so

Lol I really did think I kept the foglight stuff, just chucked the bumper but while tearing apart the garage I realized I didn't keep them, but I do have a rebuilt Carb for an 83 Chevy C10 I wrecked in 2013.....

Side view of my RR bumper end caps with stock tires. Tires are roughly 31.5 x 8, at 1/3 turn the outer edge of those tires is 1.75 inches from the bumper. 35s roughly 2 inches taller on the sidewall from the rim. They dont fit on stock offset at stock height with this bumper.