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No problem. Now that I thiink about it, I don't even think the truck needs to be in RUN. Pretty sure you can map those steering buttons while driving.

Place truck in RUN, navigate to the Audio screen (number 7?) in the EVIC, press and hold the RIGHT ARROW button on the steering wheel, whilst still holding the right arrow button, select any of the 3 cruise control buttons (+,-,Res) to advance through a list of mappable choices. FInd the one you...

Just revisiting the thread to say thanks, everyone, for the info. I knocked out the ACT install over the last couple of evenings. Other than the top two bellhousing bolts and that ridiculous fuel line bracket up there, there were no unexpected difficulties. I have only driven it a few miles...

I have a G900 Pro (which I believe is the 12" version). I've been mostly happy with it. It has its quirks......I have to tap the screen and manually switch to the rear view on just about every startup, and once or twice a month, it will just be a black screen until I stop/restart the truck. Both...

My current setup is 37x12.50 Firestone M/Ts on the OEM Mopar steelies. No extra spacers or oddness was needed to get them to fit, although I suspect that with the sway bar unlocked, and at full steering lock/articulation, I would have issues. Still minimal poke, so I am happy. I wanted a flat...

These were both taken right after I installed the 2" Mopar lift. I believe those were 255/85r17 Baja Boss tires on the stock Rubicon wheels.

Correlation does not imply causation yada yada.......but I sometimes also see something similar with both my Stinger head units. In my case, it's so sporadic I have decided it's not worth investing any troubleshooting time in.

Both of the full size J-Trucks I have were bought because of these engines. The bit of extra HP in that AMC Vigilante is fine and all.....but I definitely have a bit of nostalgia for the Buick. It was a hassle trying to adapt pulleys/accessories from other BOP motors of the era, but I am a...

Can't speak to your specific scenario... but in the event no one responds I am happy to take whatever measurements you need when I am near the truck again. I have the Defender on the truck in the profile pic. Might be later tonight, or (more likely) on the morrow.

I’m in fleet territory at this point.

This is the exact feature being highlighted in the post you are responding to.

If it were me, and given the fact that other electrical systems don't seem to be affected, this would be enough to warrant replacing the button. If only to troubleshoot.

Clean.

Yeah, I should have mentioned that in the initial post. When I first placed the order I was hoping the stainless M8 hardware I already had in the shop would fit through the gussets. When they didn't, and since I needed it done that day, I used a step bit to make enough room in the gussets. In...

And they are available in colors that aren't fire engine red, although you (unlike me) may not have a mini-addiction to earth tones. https://www.scepter.com/products/military-products/

FWIW, I used 50" extrusion with tapped ends. So the images I posted earlier should give you an idea of the overhang.

That's cause you pay the price in blood trying to finagle that damn thing into the back of your pedal. At least I did. I did notice a difference though. Worth the $10 I paid for it, for sure.

Anodized Aluminum extrusion and various bits from TNUTZ.com is what I used. I have a set of the official SmartCap bars on another truck. I just wanted something that sat lower, and looked cleaner.

Magnets. Starlink Mini, interior lights, cable routing for the side bins, pretty much everything on my cap is using magnets at this point.

The plug change on the 5.7 in our Grand Cherokee is easy enough. The only annoying thing is that there are 16 of them.