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I'll go with both cause would rather do adjustable heavy duty nice looking control arms now

I keep readingrywhere you need a new shaft if going 4" plus but is that true?

Ahh see this is the knowledge I like to hear. So on that note with an adjustable track bar on the front would you even pair it up with a bracket to flatten it as well?

Ok so both front and rear track bar, Lower control arms, a good steering Stabilizer and a 1.5" spacer for driveshaft bearing

Ok so guess my plans changed from going to 3.5" or 4.5" kit after some of these ideas. What I'm thinking is add a Terraflex 1" puck to my already 2.5" extended springs, upgrade Shocks to better ones, adjustable track bar to get vehicle centered again, 1.5" Driveshaft Carrier bearing spacer...

At 3.5" do I need a track bar relocation bracket or is it just smarter idea to get one if putting an adjustable track bar?

Would it make any sense to add the shock bracket that kits use for when people go from stock to 2.5" with stock shocks to gain back that extension. Not like we do anything hardwire anyways. Does the brand of Trackbar matter and going to 3.5" would the same Swaybar extensions suffice?

Hello last year I put a Quadratec 2.5" spring kit on our 2023 Rubicon with 37" and no issues at all but now wanting to get a hair more height and upgrade some components. We do 98% on road and nothing wild offroad but would like the extra articulation with the extra 1" clearance. So seeing as I...

Probably an angry wife of GF selling her man's stuff

Never said they are a dime a dozen or worth retail but since there are so many willy's and sports out there with ugly Pinch welds you would think they would want something. Of course us guys with Rubicons and Mojaves don't need them but seriously they are over $1500 new for both so have to be...

$100???? Jesus christ that's insane. These retail on Mopar website for $900 Canadian a side and biggest mistake is when people look up they see the price and don't understand that's just for 1 side not a pair so when you see $700-900 that's each.

Not even the same thing as we are talking about. If they used paint markers on my tires I would throat punch them

Yep so many people just measure the ture and input without actually checking accuracy. I did that on our 2 door but after using gps and looking at both speed and distance I found every Kilometer I was off .2 so that adds up fast for oil change or selling mileage as well as throws off Fuel...

I havnt tried highway driving yet but going from 33" wildpeaks to new rims and 37" Kanati Trail hogs got me going from #90.6 to #98.6 for the 37" What i want to know is everyone just using JSCAN to input 37" and running it or actually doing it the right way and choosing tore size that actually...

Like the Kanati Trail Hog??

Ok this is something I never knew so looked up and now everything people post contradicts each other. .lmao. Does anyone here know the right answer cause I'm getting so much conflicting info and maybe most is due to steel rims vs aluminum rims. I had 5 tires balanced and mounted 2 weeks ago and...

Just found this thread So I'll have to do chalk test. Just had 37" Kanati Trail Hog AT install which are load E and I was driving around first 2 days wondering why no ture hum and suspension felt hard as well as some vibration. Went and tested the PSI to be shocked they had 52psi ...wtf. lowered...

Yep simple install. Use 1/4" drill bit to remove current plastic rivets then install new ones. My rivet guns wernt big enough for these so I used a small wrench to go over the rivet head and pulled tight with a set pliers. They are plastic so easy

I got these flares for $99 canadian cause I'm canadian so that's pretty good if you convert to american at $72US

Soon as I seen you say you had 33" with 21" rims I laughed and didn't read any farther. If someone puts even 20" rims and a winch in same sentence you know they will be having problems cause they arnt offroad people who can wrench on their own stuff