Great to hear and thank you for the follow up…too often these threads are left hanging.
Regarding the side to side lean. I often fall into the trap of throwing money at things and always have to remind myself to systematically start at the basic things and work my way to the more...
First thing I would do is: put it on a level surface, loosen the control arm and track bar bolts(don’t just crack the bolts loose…back them off so there is no tension on the bolt shaft), give it a bounce on each corner, re-torque. With bonded joints, if you have significant binding in the arms...
Finally got around to sorting out my 37” tire w/ 4.8” wheel backspace vs. 8100 external reservoir and Currie anti rock vs. 8100 external reservoir.
Tire would solidly contact the resi with full steering lock cross stuff and the anti rock and resi occupied the same space. Ended up picking up...
I know it was asked for a which one to buy but if you feel like inclined to do so… U-Haul guide. The guide says coupler height is approx. 18” … it’s usually is in the ballpark of 18~19”.
The original post that got torpedoed didn’t actually seem all that bad to me. The replies from other members did give me flashbacks of the good old days when I’d frequent pirate but saw most of them being tongue and cheek. Everyone has gotten so touchy/soft … on both sides really.
A few things that come to mind:
1) Pressure wash the underside of your jeep a couple days prior and let it dry
2) Get a tape measure and mini digital angle finder, park the jeep on an area of constant slope and measure every angle and distance you think you might want to reference later (I.e...
Diesel Sport w/ stock gears
Stock: 26~28 MPG (Hand Calc) depending on driving habits
37” tires, 2.5” lift, stubby bumper, skids, smartcap, ect: 19-21 MPG (Hand Calc) depending on driving habits
I noticed about 1 mpg lost from the SmartCap, 2 mpg lost when I did the winch, bumper, skids then...
Before buying anything I would do the following.
1) Verify the springs are seated correctly.
2) With the jeep on the ground. Loosen the upper and lower rear control arm bolts and then re-torque.
3) Re-center the rear axle, provided you have an adjustable track bar
4) Swap the rear springs...
The “off-road” jacks typically have an adaptor that does what you mentioned. I have both, these and the traditional floor jack, you do have to get more creative with the traditional floor jack but sometimes the “off-road” jacks are too high.
I haven’t trimmed the fender liners, just drilled a hole and zip tied. I’m waiting for my shocks to come in, once I get those I’ll pull the springs to set the bump stops for full cross droop/stuff and verify clearances and trim/zip tie more if needed. Right now I don’t have any fender rubbing...
On other vehicles that I have trimmed, I have found the easiest to be sheetmetal shears. For the Gladiator , have found a zip tie works fine for that area.