SPOD Fault Work Around for KC Light Pro 6 Gravity Bar (Explanation Needed)

[Detachment-1]

Hi!
BLUF: Can someone help me understand this graphic I received from SPOD Tech?

BACKGROUND:
I have a KC Lights Gravity Lightbar hooked up to my BantamX and when I turn it on, it works, but when I switch it off all the lights for the switch blink indicating a short or fault of some kind of fault.

I have a 2021 Gladiator BantamX and HD panel.

The specs for the light bar are:

SPECIFICATIONS
- Wattage: 160W
- Amp Draw: 14.67A
- LED Source: Cree XPL HD LED
- LED Color: 5000K
- Voltage: 9-32V
- IP Rating: IP68
- Dimensions: H - 6.06" x D - 3.33" x W - 51.625"


I contacted SPOD TECH SUPPORT who answered quickly:

We have found that a relay needs to be used with that bar to prevent that fault from occurring (see attached)

with the above graphic but I’m a Marine Infantryman so if it ain’t in crayon, I’m lost.

Can someone explain this to me with as much detail as needed to help me initiate the above fix. Links to actual products get extra thumbs up from me!

Thanks & Stay Dangerous!
DrD

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[kg4wsv]

They're telling you the SPOD can't drive these lights directly, so you need to add a relay. SPOD turns on the relay, relay turns on the lights.

The relay is something like this (this is the first hit on Amazon and not a recommendation) https://www.amazon.com/PACK-AMP-Wat...YifQ==&sprefix=automotive+rela,aps,192&sr=8-3

They want you to take the + wire from the SPOD that's currently going to the lights and connect it to the coil on the relay. Connect the other relay coil pin to ground to complete the circuit.

Take the wire to the lights that you just disconnected from the SPOD output, and connect it to the NO contact on the relay, labelled 87.

Run a new wire from the battery hot to the relay's pin 30.

Those are standard pin numbers for automotive relays; most any relay should have the numbers either printed on top and/or molded into the plastic on bottom.

Of course, before you start figure out a place to mount the relay; much easier to do that before rather than after.

-j

 

[Detachment-1]

They're telling you the SPOD can't drive these lights directly, so you need to add a relay. SPOD turns on the relay, relay turns on the lights.

The relay is something like this (this is the first hit on Amazon and not a recommendation) https://www.amazon.com/PACK-AMP-Waterproof-Relay-Harness/dp/B074FSZWVT/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=automotive+relay&qid=1665602030&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI0Ljc1IiwicXNhIjoiNC4zNiIsInFzcCI6IjQuMjYifQ==&sprefix=automotive+rela,aps,192&sr=8-3

They want you to take the + wire from the SPOD that's currently going to the lights and connect it to the coil on the relay. Connect the other relay coil pin to ground to complete the circuit.

Take the wire to the lights that you just disconnected from the SPOD output, and connect it to the NO contact on the relay, labelled 87.

Run a new wire from the battery hot to the relay's pin 30.

Those are standard pin numbers for automotive relays; most any relay should have the numbers either printed on top and/or molded into the plastic on bottom.

Of course, before you start figure out a place to mount the relay; much easier to do that before rather than after.

-j

THANK YOU!

SPOD Tech got back to me and sent me a link to the right relay, which was helpful.

I started to get a general idea once I figured out how to narrow down my google search to the almost right thing.

But your explanation has saved me hours!

I really appreciate it!

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