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EgulAye's mild hunting build (is it an overland build?)
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EgulAye
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- #47
5/18/23
Today I installed the RokBlokz mud flaps that I bought back in January. The package came with a QR code to go online and find directions. There was also a QR code for a video showing the install. I found the paper instructions a bit challenging to understand. The video QR code didn't work for me so I sent an email to RokBlokz. They responded quickly with a link in the email for the video and also attached a PDF of the instructions.
As soon as I watched the video I realized the install was actually quite simple. After assembling the rear mud flaps I spent about 15 minutes outside getting them mounted.
Today I installed the RokBlokz mud flaps that I bought back in January. The package came with a QR code to go online and find directions. There was also a QR code for a video showing the install. I found the paper instructions a bit challenging to understand. The video QR code didn't work for me so I sent an email to RokBlokz. They responded quickly with a link in the email for the video and also attached a PDF of the instructions.
As soon as I watched the video I realized the install was actually quite simple. After assembling the rear mud flaps I spent about 15 minutes outside getting them mounted.
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EgulAye
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- #48
5/26/23
The new winch rope arrived this week. I ordered it through Amazon. It's a USA made synthetic rope.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004VPEEFM/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
Installing it will require taking the bumper off, and the weekend is full of plans already. Some time soon... Hopefully I remember to take photos
The new winch rope arrived this week. I ordered it through Amazon. It's a USA made synthetic rope.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004VPEEFM/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
Installing it will require taking the bumper off, and the weekend is full of plans already. Some time soon... Hopefully I remember to take photos
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EgulAye
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- #49
6/9/23
The new coil spacers have all arrived. My hope is to bump the clearance up just a little, without having to replace a lot of suspension components. The reason to keep the lift minimal is to keep the on-road handling good and the expense low. The front coil spacers are a Teraflex 1-1/2" lift (TeraFlex) (1" and 1/2" parts). The rear coil spacers are an Icon 1-3/8" lift (ICON) (single piece). The Icon parts are solid and hefty, they feel like durable parts. The Teraflex parts are polyurethane and have voids in the underside. These are lightweight and don't feel durable, but Teraflex has a good reputation so I'm going with it.
I'm supposed to be fixing my daughter's Jeep Liberty this weekend, but if I need a break from body work I might get these spacers installed on the Gladiator...
The new coil spacers have all arrived. My hope is to bump the clearance up just a little, without having to replace a lot of suspension components. The reason to keep the lift minimal is to keep the on-road handling good and the expense low. The front coil spacers are a Teraflex 1-1/2" lift (TeraFlex) (1" and 1/2" parts). The rear coil spacers are an Icon 1-3/8" lift (ICON) (single piece). The Icon parts are solid and hefty, they feel like durable parts. The Teraflex parts are polyurethane and have voids in the underside. These are lightweight and don't feel durable, but Teraflex has a good reputation so I'm going with it.
I'm supposed to be fixing my daughter's Jeep Liberty this weekend, but if I need a break from body work I might get these spacers installed on the Gladiator...
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EgulAye
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- #50
6/9/23
The new winch rope installed very easily. The retaining clip at the starting end was the correct size and I was able to get it started without removing the bumper this time. I only removed the fairlead and cover plate.
With the old rope I removed the front section that had been damaged and made loops on the ends for a 60 foot long extension rope. Here are a few photos I captured of the loop making process.
The new winch rope installed very easily. The retaining clip at the starting end was the correct size and I was able to get it started without removing the bumper this time. I only removed the fairlead and cover plate.
With the old rope I removed the front section that had been damaged and made loops on the ends for a 60 foot long extension rope. Here are a few photos I captured of the loop making process.
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EgulAye
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- #51
6/11/23 | 48,917 miles
Coil Spacer Install
I took a tip from a long time YouTuber and made half a dozen clips from 1" x 1/8" steel flat stock and used these on the coils to prevent them from extending fully. I put three on each coil before lowering the axle. This allowed me to remove the springs without having to drop the axle as far as would be typical. You can find that video here: BSF Recovery Team
It seems like I took before and after photos, but essentially nothing in between. Both the front and rear spacers were relatively straightforward to install. I disconnected the lower shock bolts and sway bar links in both cases. For the rear spacers I also disconnected the axle end of the track bar. I did not have to disconnect any electrical connections, brake line brackets, etc. Maybe this is because the Rubicon model has more articulation built into those connections than other models? Or maybe the spring clips made that much difference...
Note that i did not install the bump stop extensions that came with the front spacers. With the Fox series 2.5 shocks there is enough travel that the stock bump stops are tall enough.
And the rear spacers:
Coil Spacer Install
I took a tip from a long time YouTuber and made half a dozen clips from 1" x 1/8" steel flat stock and used these on the coils to prevent them from extending fully. I put three on each coil before lowering the axle. This allowed me to remove the springs without having to drop the axle as far as would be typical. You can find that video here: BSF Recovery Team
It seems like I took before and after photos, but essentially nothing in between. Both the front and rear spacers were relatively straightforward to install. I disconnected the lower shock bolts and sway bar links in both cases. For the rear spacers I also disconnected the axle end of the track bar. I did not have to disconnect any electrical connections, brake line brackets, etc. Maybe this is because the Rubicon model has more articulation built into those connections than other models? Or maybe the spring clips made that much difference...
Note that i did not install the bump stop extensions that came with the front spacers. With the Fox series 2.5 shocks there is enough travel that the stock bump stops are tall enough.
And the rear spacers:
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EgulAye
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- #52
6/17/23 | 49,624
Changed the oil and filter today, even though it was raining. I was a bit concerned when I picked up the filter and it was a cartridge and o-ring, but it went well. I'll need to start a log book instead of just keeping receipts in a manila folder. The oil change was pretty straightforward. You can find a YouTube video like this one from Northridge 4x4 if you have questions about where things are, the process, or what tools you'll need.
Five quarts of oil and the filter cartridge from NAPA came to $48.42. NAPA part number for the filter is #100010, oil is #75541.
Changed the oil and filter today, even though it was raining. I was a bit concerned when I picked up the filter and it was a cartridge and o-ring, but it went well. I'll need to start a log book instead of just keeping receipts in a manila folder. The oil change was pretty straightforward. You can find a YouTube video like this one from Northridge 4x4 if you have questions about where things are, the process, or what tools you'll need.
Five quarts of oil and the filter cartridge from NAPA came to $48.42. NAPA part number for the filter is #100010, oil is #75541.
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EgulAye
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- #54
8/27/23 | 53,280
I made a small repair this weekend. The two visors broke where they attach to the roof:
I found a repair kit on Amazon for it (via a Facebook chat group ). It was less than $15, so also an inexpensive fix.
This was super easy to install and seems to work perfectly.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BZWKNRNL?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
I made a small repair this weekend. The two visors broke where they attach to the roof:
I found a repair kit on Amazon for it (via a Facebook chat group ). It was less than $15, so also an inexpensive fix.
This was super easy to install and seems to work perfectly.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BZWKNRNL?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
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EgulAye
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- #55
11/27/23 | 56,512
I got the new Nitto Ridge Grapplers installed today. These are in 35x11.5R17LT size. It was easy to program the new tire size with the Tazer mini (wheel diameter 34.77). The spare tire fits underneath without modification. There's less road noise than the factory tires (which had a lot of wear, feathering, and cupping present).
I got the new Nitto Ridge Grapplers installed today. These are in 35x11.5R17LT size. It was easy to program the new tire size with the Tazer mini (wheel diameter 34.77). The spare tire fits underneath without modification. There's less road noise than the factory tires (which had a lot of wear, feathering, and cupping present).
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EgulAye
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- #56
12/9/23 | 57,132
Oil change time; 5 quarts of NAPA full synthetic 0W-20 pn:75541, NAPA Gold filter 100010, a 15/16" socket for the filter cap, and a 13mm socket for the drain plug. The old filter and oil are pretty dark; I'm thinking in the future I should replace sooner than the computer's oil life gauge. Today it was showing 6% remaining. The filter was $11.99 and the oil was $33.90; plus tax the total was $48.42 - same as last time.
Oil change time; 5 quarts of NAPA full synthetic 0W-20 pn:75541, NAPA Gold filter 100010, a 15/16" socket for the filter cap, and a 13mm socket for the drain plug. The old filter and oil are pretty dark; I'm thinking in the future I should replace sooner than the computer's oil life gauge. Today it was showing 6% remaining. The filter was $11.99 and the oil was $33.90; plus tax the total was $48.42 - same as last time.
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EgulAye
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- #58
1/5/24 | 58,388
I'm planning to replace the wiring that I previously installed for bed power. Though it had been working well in most regards I did have an issue the last time I used it. I have a larger sized portable air compressor for airing up. It is a Smittybilt 2781, which lists a max draw of 45Amps. After running for fifteen or twenty minutes the SAE plug in the bed started to melt. I'm assuming that connector was made out of a cheaper plastic and not a quality hi-temp material. Also, it's 12 gauge wire that I had intended to be a 30A circuit (using the "free air" ratings). With the compressor max rating of 45 amps this circuit would be obviously undersized. If I'm going to replace the failed connector I might as well use a more durable and capable style.
Side note about the old setup that I'm going to replace. I have the circuit protected by a small 30A circuit breaker, the in-line terminal style ( NAPA BUSS CBC-30HB ). So I wasn't trying to use a 45A device on an unprotected circuit, and the compressor load doesn't trip the breaker.
New materials, total cost about $105:
6 AWG welding wire, 20' of red and black ( Amazon ).
Anderson SB50 plug, 50 Amp rating, with a mounting bracket ( Amazon ). See trailer vision below
Anderson SB50 plug, 50 Amp rating, for the other end maybe? (Amazon ).
Inline breaker, 50 Amp ( Amazon ).
Dust covers (Amazon ).
1/2" split loom (Amazon).(this is too small)
3/4" split loom (Amazon).
Flush mount Anderson plug mount by Trailer Vision (Amazon).
The cable is made in the US and is high quality. There's something about a quality cable when you hold it in your hands. It just feels right. The Anderson connectors are a serious upgrade from what I previously had installed. I think the two that came with the mounting plates are an off-brand, but the additional connectors I purchased are Anderson stamped. I'll save the off-brand connectors for something else.
There are some good videos on YouTube about how the Anderson connectors go together, here's one I looked at for the pin installation component. I'll be crimping my connections first, maybe adding solder after that. ( Anderson plug fitting made easy )
I'll edit this post later w/ photos.Maybe install this weekend?
2/22/2024 updated with addl. parts.
I'm planning to replace the wiring that I previously installed for bed power. Though it had been working well in most regards I did have an issue the last time I used it. I have a larger sized portable air compressor for airing up. It is a Smittybilt 2781, which lists a max draw of 45Amps. After running for fifteen or twenty minutes the SAE plug in the bed started to melt. I'm assuming that connector was made out of a cheaper plastic and not a quality hi-temp material. Also, it's 12 gauge wire that I had intended to be a 30A circuit (using the "free air" ratings). With the compressor max rating of 45 amps this circuit would be obviously undersized. If I'm going to replace the failed connector I might as well use a more durable and capable style.
Side note about the old setup that I'm going to replace. I have the circuit protected by a small 30A circuit breaker, the in-line terminal style ( NAPA BUSS CBC-30HB ). So I wasn't trying to use a 45A device on an unprotected circuit, and the compressor load doesn't trip the breaker.
New materials, total cost about $105:
6 AWG welding wire, 20' of red and black ( Amazon ).
Anderson SB50 plug, 50 Amp rating, for the other end maybe? (Amazon ).
Inline breaker, 50 Amp ( Amazon ).
1/2" split loom (Amazon).
3/4" split loom (Amazon).
Flush mount Anderson plug mount by Trailer Vision (Amazon).
The cable is made in the US and is high quality. There's something about a quality cable when you hold it in your hands. It just feels right. The Anderson connectors are a serious upgrade from what I previously had installed. I think the two that came with the mounting plates are an off-brand, but the additional connectors I purchased are Anderson stamped. I'll save the off-brand connectors for something else.
There are some good videos on YouTube about how the Anderson connectors go together, here's one I looked at for the pin installation component. I'll be crimping my connections first, maybe adding solder after that. ( Anderson plug fitting made easy )
I'll edit this post later w/ photos.
2/22/2024 updated with addl. parts.
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EgulAye
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- #59
1/7/24 | 58,419
The new Nitto tires go very well in snow, according to my personal experience today. Also, the RokBlokz mud flaps did a great job keeping all the snow, ice, and sand off the paint and sides of the Jeep.
The new Nitto tires go very well in snow, according to my personal experience today. Also, the RokBlokz mud flaps did a great job keeping all the snow, ice, and sand off the paint and sides of the Jeep.
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redline61
Well-Known Member
I really need to add mudflaps. It would be nice not to have to leap off the side of the jeep to make sure my pants don't get mud and crap on them.
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